Tuesday 16 October 2018

Antigua-Panajachel

1158 In hostel reception, have checked out - ie handed my key in - and am waiting for nominal 1230 pickup to go to Panajachel.

I must be the luckiest guy in the world. I went over to the laundry on the offchance and asked politely if they'd found my socks - nothing ventured nothing gained etc - and they said yes, they'd handed them in at the hostel. So I asked at the desk if they had some socks for me - not a sentence I ever expected to construct, especially in Spanish - and they did. Pretty chuffed. :-)

Got up just in time to have breakfast here at hostel. Showered, cleaned teeth - there are more guests now, I have had to wait for the bathroom a few times over last couple of days - and packed really crappily - I've just shoved everything in my bag. Tis OK.

1556 In small comedor in Panajachel, waiting for coffee and filete de pollo al limon - hope I don't regret this. I was last one dropped off at hotel but no fuss getting here. Saw the lake from drive in; was misty but looked pretty impressive.

I am not sure if I like Panajachel or not yet. First impression is that it is very gritty - metaphorically and literally. Considering this is supposed to be tourist central I feel like the only one. I feel a bit on edge but I don't think it is actually dangerous. The rawness of the place does have a certain appeal after Antigua's super touristy feel. Anyway, I am just going back to the hotel after I eat for a quiet night in; I'm not planning on exploring the town today.

Hotel room is a bit dingy but pretty large, double bed even though I think I booked a single (ditto in Antigua actually), paid Q490, assuming I ever get my 10 change. Private bathroom with suicide shower but it's a private bathroom - luxury!

I keep imagining someone is going to snatch my phone even though I am sitting in the middle of the small restaurant. Not sure the waitress/proprietor/whatever likes me very much but maybe I'm being unfair. Menu is handwritten on whiteboard and has no prices on, so I may be paying tourist prices but at IIRC 25 for the food and 4 for a coffee I'm not complaining. I could possibly have had a different drink free with the meal but I'm not brave enough to order a drink which might have ice in here - it would probably be fine but baby steps.

1643 Back at hotel. Food was good, I think the coffee was instant (we had quite the debate about coffee; I have never had trouble just asking for 'cafe negro' before). Bill was 30, I made it 40. Not hungry but feeling indulgent I went into a couple of shops in search of a big packet of crisps. I couldn't find one but bought two small bags and a small packet of japanese peanuts for 9. Two blokes were milling around in the shop entrance and the MoS at the counter also came over to me; I was feeling really edgy and like maybe they were shut and I wasn't supposed to be in.

A funeral procession went past while I was in the restaurant; the coffin was being carried along and there seemed to be a lot of people walking along and on motorbikes, though maybe the latter was just traffic backed up behind the procession.

I think I'm suffering a bit of culture shock. It feels really 'odd' being here, like I really am off the beaten track - even though I'm evidently not, this being a very touristy place. Maybe the bit near my hotel isn't all that touristy, I dunno. In a way this is good of course, the whole point of travel is to see other places but still, I am feeling decidedly off-kilter. Things feel very foreign.

Oh, they gave me my Q10 change when I came back to the hotel.

People talking in the corridor outside room and it's getting quite annoying.

2047 In bed. Not exactly tired but I am sort of 'willing' to go to sleep now. It's very noisy here - in the street and the hotel - although saying that, I think it has got a lot quieter over the last half hour. Hotel rules say silence is expected from 10pm so I guess I probably won't be too disturbed during the night.

I feel pretty psychologically rough; I hope I'll feel better in the morning.

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