1138 Heading out. Bit jittery re altitude (am fine now, re Colca Canyon) but basically lots of places I am going are highish so tho need a degree of caution can't just avoid it. Minor scare from guidebook re malaria but NHS website suggests I am OK anywhere I might go except possibly NW Peru, so not worrying about that for now and when in Cusco/Lima may look into need for future destinations and try to buy some tablets there if required. Generally I get idea you either suffer altitude or malaria risk, not both simultaneously. Anyway, out.
1227 At Le Paris Resto Grill for lunch. Been into three agencies and engaged in a torrent of Spanish about my physical limitations and lack of altitude acclimatisation. Basicaly they all seem to offer virtually identical two day one night tours, only thing that varies is the price (the company recommended in guide book for proper trekking was way more expensive, the other two were random companies on plaza de armas) and how dead-fish like the tour agent was. Irrationally I am leaning towards the first company simply because the agent seemed somewhat animated, even though they are 10 PEN more expensive than cheapest (prices 70, 80 and 115 respectively, mostly for guide+transport+hotel (private room and private bathroom, no one even offered dormitory) so in all cases about 150 worth of extras). I asked all three about altitude sickness and special clothing and they were generally reassuring, I can buy a poncho in Chivay if necessary, they have oxygen on bus (the 70 tour didn't say that but I didn't ask, the 115 tour did have it but I had to ask) and tho web suggests is ineffective they all say they give you coca tea. Expensive tour suggested taking aspirin, will make sure I have some tho totally uninformed speculation on web someone said better not to mask the symptoms.
I asked last/expensive tour if it would be better to stay an extra night in Arequipa [you just cannot get diet soft drinks in restaurants here] to acclimatise more and the woman said yes. So I think I will do that, I have little fear of finding *somewhere* and can prob stay where I am so not haring back to hostel to extend, I can then mull a little further and go book a tour to leave Friday morning tomorrow morning.
Maybe I do tend to put limits on myself by avoiding trekking etc, but at least in this case given the altitude business it seems foolish for me to throw myself into something requiring hours of walking when I am completely unacclimatised.
NHS web site and/or guide book (ie semi trustworthy) say physical fitness is no protection against the serious altitude sickness, it is less clear if it helps avoid relatively minor discomfort or if there is any distinction. Anyway, I'm being as sensible as I can and fwiw I am probably in better shape now than I was in 2010.
1749 OK, got fruit earlier, came back to hostel, Skyped parents, booked Spanish lesson for 8, went back out, booked with the 80 sol tour company for Friday morning, went to Iglesia de la Compañia and the rather impressively painted adjacent Capilla de San Ignacio and then out via (as guide book says) v fancy shopping mall in courtyards off to one side, then to cathedral (large and sort of impressive but strangely meh considering the size) then back here, have paid another 33 for another night here so I'm now good up til about 3pm Sat when return from Colca trip. Will probably book here for Sat & Sun as it's cheap and now a known quantity but not worrying right this instant.
May go out for beer after Spanish lesson then circumstances will keep me alcohol-free until Saturday night when hope to go out again. Bit jittery re only 7 weeks or so left but not waffling about that now and what am I going to do, just rush round like crazy in some futile attempt to avoid that fact? Just going to spoil things.
2127 In Brujas on San Francisco. I came to this street as LP guide said bars here. This place mentioned and less clubby than some others. But I came in and fuck me, I could swear I came here in 2010. Keep meaning to re-read old blog for multiple reasons but not done it yet.
Had Spanish lesson at 8, was and am feeling a bit tired (altitude? easy excuse - also bit short of breath walking up hill from hostel, but could be imagining it) but come out anyway. The little bit of street on hill near hotel v deserted but prob OK.
2213 Second beer, only 620ml bottles though. Paying as go as suspect that is what they expect, that means no tip, dunno if that is out of order, meh. PEN8 a bottle (Cusqueña), not too bad price if not fantastic. Place definitely filling up compared to earlier, though is quite small and in any case not heaving. I am virtually certain I was here in 2010, even the TV over the door showing the upcoming songs looks familiar.
Oh, I see from guide book and a leaflet from one of the companies went to this morning that you can do an ascent of some volcano, the leaflet isn't clear if it's one day or not. That would be super cool and apparently it's not particularly difficult for its height, but I do feel that it would be the height of folly to attempt something like that without acclimatisation even were I generally fitter than I am (and honestly I actually don't think I'm that bad, if not great).
2250 Seriously torn about a third beer but I *am* a bit tired for whatever reason and I am a smidge dubious about street by hotel and I can go out Saturday night and probably be a bit more relaxed and so barring an unexpected friendly encounter I think I am going to head back when finish this one. "Bat Out Of Hell" (not noticeably remixed) on now.
2310 Back at hostel. Sorely torn (didn't help that place across street was playing Laura Brannigan's "Self Control" as walked past) about staying out but it's only Wednesday, I was tired even before 8pm and any beer and much better all round to savour the anticipation of Saturday night. I might be tiredish given super early start Saturday morning but can't be any worse than am now.
2334 Just checked out old blog, I absolutely was at Brujas before in 2010, not super clear but I may have gone, left, gone back, met some guys there. I was only in Arequipa slightly over 24h (I did remember being in a rush to get down to Santiago for Easter Island flight), mentioned the canyon I am doing Fri/Sat and also the train museum in Tacna (all from guide book) as things I could maybe do in future and how I had just scratched surface of Peru (this makes me feel better about possibly spending more time here now and not haring off to Ecuador/Colombia). I did do the museo historico nacional (which I did this afternoon, may have forgotten to mention that) and the convent, I evidently didn't do the place with the ice maiden so will probably do that tomorrow. Tempted to say MHN a smidge familiar but I may have imagined it.
I need - not first time thought or blogged this this trip - to recover a little of my barfly persona from previous trip, yes health, yes not always being hungover but you do meet people, locals and tourists, in bars. Anyway, as already planned, makes perfect sense to be paragon of virtue until Colca canyon trip over and maybe I will cut a little bit loose this coming Saturday. Anyway, bed, it's 2340. Old blog amazingly atmospheric, I guess that's what it's there for. Hope am doing as well this time round tho sometimes feel is a bit perfunctory. Meh, if it triggers memories that is the main thing.
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