Cusco, Tuesday

1028 Super hacked off in general. The room is cold, I don't want to have a fucking shower, I don't want to fucking Skype my parents, I don't want to look at the fucking guide book to see how to go about visit fucking Macchu Picchu, or even how to spell it, I don't want to go into some shitty tour office and try to book a tour. The wifi reception in room at least on mobile is shitty, it is OK for email but probably no more.

1040 I am really losing the fucking plot. The shower is one of those lethal electric head ones which just about manages to achieve lukewarrm temperature. I am in an irrational fucking rage, I really have had it with everything. Fuck the shitty hotel, fuck everyone.

1102 I am just *astounded*. Macchu Picchu is a complete fuckfest of epic proportions to visit. You have to get to Aguas Calientes then take a local bus. You need a ticket for the site purchased fuck knows how or when. You can get a train to Aguas Calientes but it leaves at 0742 or something from a place 13km west of Cusco. Fuck knows how you find your way round the site on your own, and if you miss the connection back you are presumably just fucked. There is some hill you can climb but you need to apply for a permit three years in advance enclosing hen's teeth or unicorn horn (at your option) and while not technically difficult the ascent is not recommended from people who suffer from vertigo. It's hot as hell when it's not pissing it down but you're not allowed to take disposable water bottles in. The guide book pages just reek of pretentious hiking style shit. I'm going to go and have a fucking enormous lunch then wander into some random tour operators and quiz them. Really not feeling the magic. I thought the guide book was supposed to help but as so often it seems more about posing about hard-core or difficult options. I don't think it even mentions the train. seat61.com has details which are quite clear but clear in that they demonstrate the mind-boggling complexity of going there. Fuck a doodle do.

Oooh, baby. Just managed to find something on train in guide book. It says the *only* way to access Aguas Calientes and Macchu Pichu is by train. So what the fuck is the deal with all these tour operators offering a bus service? Fuck fuck fuck. The one thing I have going for me here is that I think Jun-Aug is peak season.

1136 Found somewhere doing bisteck a lo pobre. Not going to write more now, hope food and being out of that fucking freezing hotel room (it's sunny out, but my feet are still cold from the room) will improve my mood.

1211 This place is Ñucchu. Food OK if not fantastic, came with some tomato and cucumber slices I have religiously avoided touching lest they be dressed, also a fried banana which I have eaten except where it touched the vegetables. One fried egg and some rice as well as chips. Not sure if I feel that much better but at least a bit.

1222 Bill 23, will make it 25. Still not really in mood for tour agencies but let's have a go.

1429 OK, spoke to three agencies, and I have paid PEN619 for a tour Fri/Sat to sacred valley Fri, train to Aguas Calientes Fri afternoonish, overnight there then guided tour plus free time at MP early Sat. I have to pay about PEN70 for entry to sacred valley on top of that and there may be an extra meal to pay for; I paid 25 extra for buffet lunch on I think first day. That includes hotel in AC. I was/am due to check out of here by 9am Fri so the 830 start is not too bad. I will need to leave my bag behind but depending how I get on with this room I may book to stay here Sat (and Sun?) nights on condition I can leave my bag between two stays, if not am sure I can get somewhere else to look after it if I book there for after tho be faff dumping bag there Fri morning. Not worrying about that until tomorrow as don't want to decide until I see how I get on with this hotel.

Oh, the agent muffed the USD to PEN conversion and was going to charge me just PEN350ish, but being super honest and wanting to avoid problems I said I thought that was wrong.

My teeth hurt, but I think it's because I was inadvertently clamping my jaws together on the bus last night/this morning.

Realised earlier today I have about six weeks left and that has to include flying to BA to catch my return flight. It's OK, still plenty of time and I am determined to make things less sucky when I am back home and I will sketch out an itinerary in next day or two.

1509 Been round small museum in Scotiabank saw when got cash earlier, though not allowed up to second floor, didn't understand a word the guard said but still. Was going to come into Museo de Arte Popular (sort of walked past it by accident) but if I read the sign right entry is PEN70 as a special offer, it is normally PEN130, so they can fuck right off.

1628 Bite me. At Cross Keys having a pint of Abbot Ale. Went to Museo del Convento de la Merced, building quite cool and also one v heavy metal album cover-esque painting showing the devil being tortured by various beats, but sadly photography prohibited even without flash. PEN15 for the pint which I guess isn't too bad, though it is served a bit cold.

Lashings of touts round the various plazas, though fortunately not too persistent. One woman offered me a flyer for an Indian buffet but I waved her off without thinking about it and then when I wandered back up street in hope of finding her again she was gone.

2141 In bed. Room not been that cold but sheets feel very clammy. No socket next to bed either, woo.