Santiago, Friday

1425 Fucking hell. I'm at the fucking bus terminal trying to buy a fucking ticket to fucking Vallenar. It is fucking queue central. I just spent at least half an hour in a queue only to be told 'go to window 6 over there' when I got to the front. It is fucking impossible to compare prices with this kind of queueing. That was a Pullman Bus window so I'm now in a huge queue to enquire at Tur Bus on principle. Northern Chile is fing expensive, I am going to Vallenar in part as I could get a room for 'only' £32 a night. Calama (for the mine) is 22 hours by bus which is a stretch, so want to break journey. I am hoping there is an overnight bus Mon 3rd but fuck knows. I have a freely cancellable reservation for Tues 4th night but not for Mon 3rd, if there is no overnight bus I might buy a ticket (given the hellish queues coming back is prob not an option) for Mon and hope. I emailed the mine tour people (guide book says to do it a week in advance this time of year) asking for a slot on thu or fri next week. If I don't get on I will probably bypass Calama as it too is super expensive. I looked into flying but on Mon Santiago-Calama would be 240 quidish and on Tue 170ish, not that Tue is any good. Given I can't assume I will get on tour esp not if got to Calama by Mon on plane, and it would be super expensive (and dull) to spend four or five nights there I think the broken bus journey is best option. This is all taking a little more time than I hoped but sod it. From Calama I hope to be able to get a bus across into Peru, but not looked into that yet.

Got up about midday when aroused from doze by towel delivery. Did research on mine and breaking journey then, also had some fruit/veg. Day seemed half gone but what can you do? Obviously buying this ticket will take all afternoon, esp if need to go back to flat immediately to look for hotel for Mon night. Came over here on Metro, this is where I arrived by bus other day but wasn't going to waste time walking it today, bit of a slog even by Metro TBH.

This queue is at least moving moderately fast. Nearly at front.

1444 Fucking hell. I asked if there was a bus in Spanish and the chap summoned an adjacent bloke to talk to me in English. Anyway, it was 36k - thirty six fucking thousand - for cama on a 235x bus arriving 0915 next morning. Could have had semicama but felt best not. Cama premium was 56kish! Pullman Bus had a price list up and their cama was 27kish iirc, but with the queues from hell and the uncertainty around affordable hotels if needed to stay in Vallenar Mon night I didn't want to risk leaving it while I queued up again for Pullman Bus only to maybe find they were full or had no night bus. Maybe I could have looked on their websites to check prices but I felt pushed for time and also assumed it would be easy to do so at terminal.

Oh, bus fnal dest is Copiapo, don't think is on ticket.

Been over to adjacent terminal (where I arrived) to check where left luggage is as given the 'office' non hotel aspect on my flat accom don't expect nwould be able to pick bag up at 10pm at night even if they would let me leaveit as office prob only open during normalish working hours.

Booked Spanish lesson for 8pm which was poss stupid. Anyway, feeling quite hacked off, bit irrationally much but anyway. Will go get food I think.

2217 At 'A Otra Puerta' on Pio Nono. Somewhat pricey at 2.5k for a 750mlish bottle of lager, but meh, there was a free table outside (which is rare) and it says something about live music so we will see. Minimum per person of 4.something, ffs. Needed cash machine as well as table so did circuit, Crazy Bar doesn't seem to have live music and all else being equal better to try somewhere else. I feel a touch self-conscious

Oh you fuckers. It is a 355ml bottle. I obviously didn't hear properly or assumed. And I've got to buy another one to meet their minimum. I'm not staying here after these. Cunts. Three fucking quid for a pissy little bottle. Robbing bastards.

I'm tempted to just neck it, but that would be stupid. If anything I'm more likely to get a table somewhere else a bit later as some of these drinkers probably piss off to a club around midnight. Seriously not happy about being taken for a ride on the beer.

I wouldn't have come to Pio Nono but it's fucking impossible to find any live music on web. Guide book mentioned some bar but apart from sounding poncy as fuck I checked their poncy-as-fuck website and they have two DJs on tonight.

While I'm having a fucking miserable time might as well write today up. Went for food (had a beer with it, since it was included) at Jerry's at bus terminal (definitely been there before, either in 2010 or 2011 before getting a bus out northwards), then as per plan went over to (from memory) Salvador Allende Solidarity Museum, but it's closed until April. Walked back to hotel to see bit more of city and see if serendipity would throw some gig for tonight at me, called in at National History Museum right by plaza de armas (this is the history of the nation, not *natural* history) which was OK though four of the rooms upstairs were shut and I wanted a (soft) drink and was feeling bit rushed by Spanish lesson but was OK.

Oh, got email from mine people while in metro stn, first avail slot is 17th feb! I can go on a standby list but I need to decide if I am still going to super-expensive Calama if I only have a chance (no idea if slim or not) of doing this mine tour. Sooner reply better but prob make no difference now it's the weekend. Guess prob no downside to going on list and just not turning up. May reply to them in a minute and then it can send when get home.

Prob will go to Calama esp if I can get an international bus from there, but I might just stay the one night. I've been before and it's OK but really nothing special and only the mine was drawing me back.

2258 A woman is singing inside, may be live but not sure. Not v rock-y so not enough to tempt me to stay after this second beer. May well not stay out mega late if mood doesn't improve. Quite enjoyed Spanish lesson, perhaps cos it gave me a chance to moan a bit about today's minor but persistent shittiness. ;-) I don't speak to anyone back home on 'phone' except parents and that's v different not to mention heavily dominated by seeing Z, who however is pretty well in appearance but essentially apparently on borrowed time.

2318 Getting bill. Bit dubious about getting table elsewhere but no big deal, I don't mind doing a circuit or two, something will probably turn up - I can always go inside, most people want to be outside - and if worst comes to worst just go home. Bill taking forever to turn up, but it all gives time for the clubbers to leave. Midnight is sort of early according to guide book but I think there will be a slight exodus starting around then.

2323 I asked for the bill before I made the previous entry. Am I still required to fucking tip? Sod it, going to ask again. Was same waiter, he pointed at another guy. I understood it didn't matter who you asked. Maybe he is going to get round to me eventually. Shitty.

2327 Getting seriously pissed off. I am sober, I am going to go in and ask for the bill.

2332 Paid, was 4532 with 10% tip, paid 4550. At some place oppositeish where some guys just left table, dunno if will get any service but meh. There was a woman singing inside but not interested (and not just cos of bill glitch). The first beer I had was actually only 1650 despite what it said on menu but still pricey for 355ml. This place is opposite Kiko Schop but as my table is some way off the actual frontage of this bar can't see the name.

Accosted waiter clearing a table (I always feel bad doing that) and it's 2k for a litre of Escudo so ordered that. Don't fancy chances of making any acquaintances tonight but you never know and I am not really in the mood; if it happens sweet, if not no problem at all.

2338 Chap just came and asked if he could take a stool from table (I have a chair, but two of the four seats are stools). I was slightly thrown as I couldn't *see* the stool he was pointing at on the opposite side of table to me, but I managed.

2341 All three other seats now gone. No sign of my beer yet, but at least it's cheap here.

2347 Fuck me, has it really been fifteen minutes since I asked for that beer? Perhaps my fault, though FFS how many ways can 'un litro de escudo por favor' be misinterpreted? Let's try again.

Just said 'disculpe' to some waiter and he held up a palm in a kind of 'patience' gesture. No idea if was same one as before or not. I must say things don't seem to be going well tonight. I'm definitely not pissed - as if they'd care, unless I was *seriously* drunk. OK, let's wait another 15 minutes and see what if anything happens.

2351 Waiter (a waiter, dunno which one) just came and asked me what I want. They don't have Escudo (out of stock? putting language issues aside, I see other people have litre bottles of Escudo on their tables), but a litre of Cristal is apparently 1500. Have ordered that but won't be astounded if I get a 300ml bottle after all, that would be totally in keeping with tonight's vibe.

0002 Fan fucking tastic. Some woman just came over. Despite the fact there are no more seats at this table, I think she wants

0106 OK, I misinterpreted, she was inviting me to join her and her three friends. They just left, we had a nice chat (mostly in  Spanish). Turns out this is a gay bar, being outside and no one being overly affectionate and no rainbow flag I didn't notice. Will finish this beer and try somewhere else on this street.

Got bill before finishing, 2.5k but maybe I mishead, still ok, made it 3k.

0113 OK, now at Crazy Bar (outside), not because I particularly wanted to come here but you know, old assocations and there was a table free so WTF. Having a litre of Escudo, may have another after but play it by ear. I thought that woman wanted my table instead of inviting me over, hence earlier annoyance; to be fair I did wonder if she was inviting me over but with the linguistic uncertainty I assumed the contrary. She and one of her friends spoke a little English which eked my Spanish out nicely. No sounds of karaoke or live band (tho lack of musical instruments on stage visible through window earlier meant already suspected latter) from inside so no harm being outside. Already vastly exceeded my socialising expectations tonight so still not desperate to meet anyone but if anyone does care to speak to me obviously cool with that and not pissed yet so it would be OK.

0130 Music coming from inside which sounds as if might be live. I asked chap on door and is 3k to enter, which is fine, but I can't take my litre of beer in, and there is a sign which I misinterpreted before saying they don't sell litres of beer inside. This seems a bit silly, and I also don't fancy paying through the nose for smaller quantities of beer. I guess I am going to finish this beer outside anyway - damn well not so desperate I am going to leave a nearly full bottle - and see how I feel after and if there is still music. By that point I won't want much more (at least, not rapidly) so if I have to pay more it's not so bad, but maybe the music will be off by then. Vamos a ver. To be honest I can hear it well outside and while nicely rock-ish it's not insane and with the smoking ban loads of people are ouside. I do find this 'no litres inside' thing a bit crazy though. I hope I can still go in for a piss, but fortunately had one at the gay bar so can wait until I finish this before mulling that aspect over.

0141 Just went for irrationally needed piss and to case inside out. Is indeed a band. Tables free or could sit at bar. Got free shower from some not quite clear sprinklery quality at urinal, also a v drunk guy in corner half drooling and half vomiting. Might go in after this litre but not rushing, getting pissed would not help and not super bothered.

0221 Just went and asked the guy on the door what time the live music stopped and didn't understand a word he said, but given the time might suspect not much later. Seems a bit of a shame but I might fuck off, unless my terminal visit to the bog (and maybe asking someone inside) suggests otherwise. Is already quite late and want to be fresh for tomorrow. I might walk home though. Actually that sounds good. Given legal bars shut at 4 probably not likely to be much longer. Chap just came up to me, said 'una mas' and disappeared immediately. Hope he is not fetching me another beer. Didn't realise so late but of course that is cool in its way. Been mulling oddly over 'shipping out' and thinking should send an appreciative email to author, must be pissed.

0235 Spoke to waiter, he said music til 330, paid outside bill and 3k to come in and now inside. Karaoke lyrics on screen which do not match the music playing. Not at all sure what's going on but meh. Queue for bogs as old woman cleaning up.

0242 Front and back bars obviously different, karaoke up front. Asked to sing Por Que No Se Van. Paid 2k for schop. Meh, not as if any reason to be embarassed.

0246 Sung. Seemed a bit shorter than thought but meh, did it. Oddly proud. Some people made supportive gestures.

0330 We've had some karaoke in Spanish and English but seems to have ended now in favour of live band at back. Don't feel pissed but the thing about karaoke is you end up reading lyrics on screen and I had a bit of double vision. While not rushing home I am being a smidge cautious. No, we seem to have more karaoke now, I do think the double music sources is a bit imprudent but meh, if they can live with it so can I.

0334 Certain closing up table gathering by staff. Honestly I'd half love to bit invited on to an after hours (unlikely, I feel) and I'd half love to just go home, so as to be fresh for tomorrow.

0339 I do feel just a smidge - no more - drunk and the double vision on the lyrics doesn't help. In some ways fuck invitations, I want to see the night out. On other hands, I don't want to be knackered tomorrow night so sticking on here is arguably a bit silly. If I had met after hours friends I'd probably have done so already. But I do hate to leave before thrown out. Tension!

Woo, Juan Gabriel's Querida now. But it changes nothing. If I had nothing planned tomorrow night would definitely stick on regardless of possibilities. As it is I feel possibilities are slim and don't want to fuck tomorrow night over for them but also don't want to pass them up.

0344 OK, I am leaning strongly to just leaving. It grates to leave any kind of party semi-sober but tomorrow night is important and this isn't great, even if they are doing a La Ley song I half recognise. If I could gorge on fried chicken on  way home would seal the deal. Maybe I will walk home, it might help compromise and re tomorrow walking home is still sobering up. More than half of this beer left but yeh, I'm mature enough to leave it. Totally sober enough to stay out but it's not fun enough to compromise tomorrow over. Doubt will get any food on way home but will still try to walk back, slightly bad for tiredness but only slightly.

0355 At place had fries Wed night, woman who took my order speaks basic English, hope am getting a plain hamburger and fries for 3k. (I didn't speak English to her, she obviously decided to pick up on my foreignness.) I should prob just get cab home but meh. Tables in other bars still busy as left but a) I think 4am closing these places is legal requirement b) given want to be fresh tomorrow silly to stick on, also being just a smidge (no false anti-exaggeration) pissed even were it possible not ideal to try for another beer in a random bar.

0425 At flat. Walk home totally cool, and irrationally or not felt as safe and like walking home through City back home. May book a night in Calama before bed but let's see.

0436 OK, I have reserved a room (private, shared bathroom) for the two nights 6th and 7th in Calama for £16/night. So assuming I can get an overnight bus from Vallenar on the night of the fifth, I am semi-laughing. I can turn up at the mine office on both sixth (admittedly a bit strung out post bus, unless I can check in early) and seventh, and I can try to book a bus on to Peru when I arrive, so all hunky dory. This robs Calama of the 'it's fucking expensive' aspect which had shitted me up. If I can 't get on the mine tour now, no big deal. Calama is I think [not checked) a big bus hub so prob great place to try to book international bus, and if it isn't I can go on from there to Iquique or Arica and cross border from there.

0449 OK, so that's a nice conclusion to a day which started shit and improved. I really need to be sound tomorrow, in bed now so fingers crossed for sleep.