Santiago, Thursday

1551 Only left flat ten mins ago, woken up about 1030 by the two women from office bringing me new towels, got up about 12 and dithered around the flat heavily. Sort of relaxing but obviously sort of waste of time. In some strange restaurant with no menu, no water, no diet coke, having chicken with rice because that is what they told me when I asked for the menu, and a bottle of peach nectar. Half regretting this but WTF.

1614 Food not bad though not mega substantial and do feel bit hungry. 2500, made it 3k. Place is El Mismo, tho name very faded outside.

1752 Bought local SIM and came into Museo Chileno De Arte Precolombina. They shut at 6 and I only went in about 4:55 but think I saw most of it, if bit hurried, though I think I did miss some temporary exhibitions on the ground floor.

2130 Went back to flat, loitered, not sure about coming out as didn't want to drink too much. Anyway, quick web search for live music led to Lonely Planet website and I am at La Chimenea in Principe de Gales off Moneda. Walked here, maybe 25-30 mins. It's fing expensive - wasn't going to eat, but I do wonder if you have to (I didn't ask) and would like something so having lomo a lo pobre at a slightly high 8.2k but that is one of the cheaper options and most of food is a bit fancy for me. Anyway, the menu doesn't give the volume of the bottled beer but I bet they are 330ml, so the cheapest beer is draught Stella Artois at 2500 a half litre. So this is London prices, basically. The place itself is not too poncy but it's more restauranty (all tables) than the sort of gig venue I might have expected and would have preferred, though OTOH it is nonthreatening, except for the prices. Still, I will have a restrained evening and it's an experience and maybe tomorrow night I'll go somewhere cheaper or more lively or both if I can find somewhere and feel brave enough. It's not insanely, OMFG expensive, it's just pricey compared to eg Crazy Bar (and I assume most places on Pio Nono are similar). I do sort of wish I'd done more web searching but OTOH this is OK and how could I know what it was like without coming and I might have an amazing night. It has a bit of an unfortunate 'live jazz at Pizza Express' quality which is a big turn off for me, but I should put my prejudices aside.

You'd think they might run to giving me some bread at these prices. I have a dish of pico de gallo and a little plate with nothing on and a knife and fork and that's it. Oh, it was at least free to get in, tomorrow night there is a cover charge of 3kish.

2158 Food OK, steak tender if rather rarer than I generally prefer, though portion of fried onions decidedly small and possibly for the first time ever there was only one fried egg. But OK, as I say.

2219 Band setting up, I have a table facing stage and by luck it has only one chair so not occupying space someone else could be using.

At museum earlier was a plaque up about the Wayuu who  nowadays live in La Guajira Peninsula (Colombia/Venezuela). Apparently (this was in English as well as Spanish) even now they bury their dead, then disinter them, surgically remove the remaining flesh from the bones before placing the bones in somewhere or other (ie the bones are the 'valuable' bit). This is apparently a big family celebrationy kind of occasion. Yes, respect blah blah, and it clearly does no harm so my own pragmatic attitude is 'none of my business', but this freaks me out slightly when I picture the scene. I dread to think if there is video of it available, I am resisting the really-not-that-strong-because-I-think-it-would-turn-my-stomach urge to look.

2246 Band seem to be coming on. Got a second beer. Feeling a bit tired, which is a bit odd but still.

2344 Band either finished or on a break. Probably latter. They are good - though I don't know the word for the style of music - but I'm just not 'feeling it', I am inclined to get bill. Yes, jnust asked. Band might be packing up actually and quite a few people left even while band were on. 13500, 14850 with suggested 10% tip. Yes, they are packing up anyway. Not absolutely my cup of tea but not bad, as I say just not feeling it and now they've finished going home is a no brainer. Bit tired, be good to get up earlyish tomorrow, conserve my alcohol allowance for another night, etc. Inevitably going to be paying 15k, I suppose if I happen to take long enough to finish beer I may get change but they haven't even collected my 15k yet and it is only 150 extra which is nothing and while by no means stellar the service has been OK, it's just the place is fing pricey. Frankly not a great night but it has been OK and probably better from a long-term having memories and experiences perspective than just having a quiet night in.

Oh, band is La Color, one of them has a T-shirt with it on and that reminds me what it was from website/poster (ie this is not like me saying the band is AC/DC because one of them is wearing an AC/DC shirt).

V much a packing up atmosphere, anyway, let's swig last mouthful and walk home.

0012 Back at flat. Not (m)any bars etc on the route to La Chimenea anyway but fairly dead on way back. Streets by no means deserted (and not at all scary) but not v busy. Passed couple of 'girlie show' places (I think; didn't want to hang around to read the virtually identical scrolling LED signs), one on Plaza de Armas (which, incidentally, is being tarted up and the centre of it is all boarded up with solid wooden panels (ie not peer-through wire), that one offering a 'continuous show'. Not tempted. :-) Am sure eg Crazy Bar and Pio Nono generally probably in full swing but not looking for anything more tonight as per earlier. Let's move towards bed. City views from balcony quite nice, tried to take photos last night so not going to faff now, not sure how successful they were (think new camera only allows manual shutter speed settings of 1s upwards, which is bit of shame), may take some more another night.