Validivia, Monday

2044 At Clover. Was torn about having Spanish lesson tonight but my teacher isn't working tonight (not booked up, not working) so point is moot.

Tried to take my own advice by snoozing for longer than 10 mins on alarm. Did sort of help, didn't get up v early but didn't feel too bad and had pleasant drowse.

Made it to Feria Fluvial in time to buy some fruit & veg and a bottle of water and just guzzle it before getting on boat (Reina Sofia, as recommended in guide book) at 1315. I had paid an extra 2k iirc to be on the upper deck, not sure if worth it but not much. Boat small enough that we spent most of the time sat at tables of six inside; I ended up with a Chilean family from Santiago. Didn't speak to them at first but after a while they spoke to me and we did chat a little, while also sort of keeping a distance which was fine with me. The mother and the two (old; nearly university age) boys spoke great English, the boys had been to British schools in Chile when younger with lessons in English, eldest had spent three months in New Zealand and next one (who spoke to me a bit less) was going to spend three months in Vancouver in July. Two young (like 7-10ish) girls completed the family, I infer they might have spoke some English but didn't speak to them.

We had food pretty much straight away, I had the pulmay which was good (just hope I don't regret all that shellfish) if a little awkward to eat with plate overflowing with shells in slightly cramped conditions.

Tour was not OMFG WOW material but OK. Views from boat nice if rather samey. We stopped at two forts, neither astounding but OK. At first one there was a sort of stone room underground (just the one room) which was quite creepy as the passage into the main room (which had a skylight to let light in) was really dark and while by inference it was totally safe there could have been a hole or a step just in front of you and I edged along v slowly. Didn't hang about down there, not just because was already pushing it a bit to get back to boat (though naturally I was there with ages to wait).

On way back I was snapping a random photo and a woman asked if I wanted her to take one of me. We switched to English and I ended up speaking to her and her family a bit (all in English; unusual concentration of English-speaking Chileans today, they all spoke good English not just 'get by as a tourist in UK' kind of English). She - Nancy, if caught her name right - had gone to school in the US so spoke fluent English. She was with her (v old) mother and some other relations, who were a family of four (mum, dad, 2 17ish boys). Dad was called Miguel, Mum was actually Romanian but had been in Chile 20+ years, she said she knew how it was with me learning Spanish as a result. Didn't ask her where she learned her English, which was good too.

Second fort was a little bit more 'intact', there was a reenactment there which I couldn't follow (both Chilean families said they found it hard too when spoke to them back at boat, which was reassuring) but was strangely interesting all the same. Somehow the best bit was the reenactors posing as guards and prisoners and touting for photo opportunities afterwards, sort of tacky but divertingly 'real'.

Got back to pier about 1930 and back at hotel 1950ish. Checked and need to check out by 11am. Will ask tomorrow if can leave bag there, if not bus terminal is nearby and I already saw it has a bag storage whatchamacallit so no harm if can't leave at hotel.

I ordered a medio which I asked and is half litre but the glass looks suspiciously huge. Oh well. Having black & tan Kunstmann.

2134 Not bad, getting a half litre of Duende Negra artesanal porter. Fuck it, it's 6% (they have some at 7-8%) but I'm not going to get pissed on three pints. This glass is same size, maybe it is a half litre, oh well. Six pints isn't going to see me dancing on the tables, plus I think I'd realise before that point anyway.

2253 Had a pint, sorry half litre, of Torobayo (sp) after that. Perhaps stupidly getting another. I 'need' to pick some photos to upload but four beers doesn't necessarily rule that out. Packing takes negligible time. Is a smidge silly but I do expect to be drinking a bit in Santiago and want to check I'm not too susceptible. Silly excuse. But FFS, four half litres is not crazy. Oh, and in bed gone midnight I continually hear the bell going for admission (my room is right behind reception desk).Not that I intend to be back after midnight but may cut it a smidge fine. Owner woman has a strangely asmiling quality, I wonder if it reflects her personality or she has some mental or physical ailment which renders her thus. Not being flippant. She seems even by my standards a touch more miserable looking than would be reasonable or explicable. Not saying it is that but for eg recall some fricking 'raising awareness' (don't get me started) ad for myaesthenia gravis (sp), she might have something like that. Her general demeanour is not super jolly but less miserable than her facial expression might suggest. OTOH I personally would probably be less than joyous in her job, but OT3H I doubt I'd look like she does. Maybe after twenty years at it it would be different.

2321 Feel bit pissed, slightly worrying, but not like I can't trust myself. Bill 8500 or 9350 with suggested tip. Not cheap but for 'artisanal beers' is OK, as long as I am not being blatantly shafted I am happy. Wish I felt more sober than I do but at same time feel Ok. Were I not checking out tomorrow I'd be totally mellow about it.

0117 Fuck me. Back at hotel for some time, uploaded and uploading some photos and had a shower. I've arranged to meet a friend in Santiago on Wednesday at 9. (I started proposing Friday and it kind of got moved backwards.) That is, I will arrive after a night on the bus on Wednesday at 8am ish, will kill time and hope to check in 3pmish then meeting at 9. FFS. Really it's not so insane but given I feel just a smidge pissed now is bit scary. But tis OK. At least I now know I will definitely not be having a beer or two tomorrow night. Or will I? If I do it will be v low key. I am prepared to average out the long term liver damage but need to be careful not to burn out my short term vitality.

0222 FFS. Some people are just coming in. Did I fuck up when I enquired about curfew? Not obviously what I did wrong. Anyway. Feel slightly pissed but OK, packed, should be going to bed but rereading "Shipping Out" by David Foster Wallace which never fails to entertain me and always makes me wonder how I appear as a tourist, though *surely* I am never as bad as a cruiser. Should go to bed soon. Sort of irrationally post-beer hungry and doubtless will gorge myself silly tomorrow midday if this persists. (I have a packet of peanuts but not touching them.)

0240 Bed.