1003 Hotel owner woman is preparing breakfast for me; hope it's edible since she appears to be doing it just for me. Didn't got to bed til about half hour or hour after last post, still, got up OK and prob felt no more shit than normal this morning.
2 croissants and coffee, that's OK. This is just bonus food to help keep me going til I can eat tonight in Bariloche. Will ask if they can call me a taxi to terminal after; there is loads of time but it is too far to lug my bag.
1132 At terminal. Taxi driver talked to me a bit, I didn't understand him a lot of the time which was awkward but guess it will come with practice. Tried to get cash from the sole machine at the terminal; Lloyds card with new PIN never tried before gave some nondescript error (probably something about an invalid operation, after going through the entire interaction), fuck knows, Metro Bank card 'worked' but the machine seemed to be upset at me asking for ARS1000. I am not absolutely desperate and there will probably be a machine at Bariloche terminal and I'm not paying the 40 fee for any less than 1000 if I can help it, it's bad enough as it is. There was a queue so I didn't experiment to see how much it would let me have (the message of course doesn't say "must be X or less and a multiple of 100" or anyting, that would be too helpful, and for only four quid a pop you can't expect top-notch cutomer service)
Taxi driver said to be careful in Bariloche; we didn't talk much about it and of course language difficulties but I think he means pickpocketing kind of stuff. Oh, it was ARS60 for that taxi, which is at least consistent but fuck it, I think that's pricey. Didn't tip either time, Fernando told me no need to and the drivers didn't seem obviously upset.
1146 Waffling boredly. I am red this morning but not too sore or anything, head skin hurts a little if touched, actually so does arm but a bit of a delayed action. Not really that bad. Will doubtless peel like mad in a day or two. Badly overdue for a haircut but not found anywhere yet and should probably leave it a day or two now.
1204 Terminal seems enormously oversized. There are at least 44 bays; I am not sure Retiro has that many. Last time I looked the monitor showed no departures in the future (ie not even five minutes into the future). We get an announcement periodically but I don't seem to catch the platform. Oh well, come 1225ish I will look at the screens and/or wander. Not overly concerned.
Oh, while I was at Retiro in BA did occur to me that if I am going home from there and am in vaguely reasonable place it may be possible to do the last leg to BA by train from eg NW Argentina. Not worth looking into until a few weeks beforehand at earlier, I think, certainly not going to let that overly influence my plans.
1219 Ah, the 44 (actually 45) numbers refer to ticket offices, not platforms. The terminal building is nevertheless v long and feels excessively large for the number of buses there seem to be.
1233 Stood watching monitors. Platform numbers do go at least as high as 43, though I don't know if they start at 1 and are numbered consecutively.
1239 Several buses showing and announced but not mine. Not worried yet but getting to point where I will be concerned about missing it if not announced soon. If it's late not a big deal but if I don't know that I can't distinguish that from somehow failing to notice information on boarding.
1313 Bus seems massively late. No announcements and not on any monitors. Run around in a 25% panic like a fool, asked various people and some offered advice unsolicited. Couldn't understand most of them due to time pressure induced lack of concentration. Why the fuck it can't be shown on monitors as late I do not know. I hope a) it is late and I haven't missed it b) it is not too late, I am not too tight for time but I do hope to be able to go out and dine when I get there, plus if (fat chance; not checked) terminal not too far from hostel it would be nice if it felt safe/light enough to walk instead of taking a taxi.
1335 Still no sign of the bus or any announcements whatsoever about it. I am a bit worried I missed it but I did do a hasty sweary tour of the platforms a bit before departure and didn't see anything remotely probably it, plus a couple of the people I have shown my ticket to definitely acted more like it was late than as if I'd missed it. Some fucking information would be nice.
1404 Hmm. A bus to Bariloche by another company has now appeared on the departure board showing time *1130*. While I have no idea where that bus started or where mine started, possibly there is a general delay and my 1255 bus will be here equally late, ie I still haven't missed it. I find the lack of announcements - and I am damn sure I'm not missing any, I understand enough to know if they pertain to my bus - appalling.
1426 On bus, turned up couple of mins ago. Origin is Buenos Aires. Moderately full upstairs and seems rather sleepy - not surprising if all these people got on in BA as I might guess - but at least for now I have a double seat to myself, though be surprised if that lasts all the way. Bought some (not much) chocolate at terminal about half hour ago (and ate it), also some Halls Colors (sic), but hope I get food. Not holding breath though.
2106 At hostel. No (count 'em) electrical sockets in dormitory. Not that they've all been bagged or my bunk doesn't have one, I can't see any. I am having an illicit 10 minute charge in bathroom before going out for dinner and beer. Will write more later but might as well do this while waiting. Oh, I get a top bunk, superb. They ought to let you pay a bit more to choose a lower one.
Got taxi from terminal, which cost 44. Sorely tempted to walk but given we were in late I was a bit edgy. Been out to get cash and paid. Reception slightly abrupt (they switched to English when I didn't understand 'dime?' after they faffed with the loud music and then didn't actually turn it down). Town (not just/especially hostel) is apparently overrun with SYTs, feeling bit overwhelmed. Does look v attractive by lake but will go check it out properly tomorrow. Plan is food, couple of beers and try to be in bed by about midnight. Sign for parascending (40secs freefall!!! xtr3me!) in reception, not doing that, will look into paragliding in guide book or in town tomorrow. Fairly sure guidebook did say paragliding in the mountains. (Though IIRC old Trailfinders policy covered parascending automatically and not paragliding, so maybe despite this scary sounding stuff it is much safer and I should consider it. Don't fancy idea of shitting myself in terror, but we'll see what pans out.)
Wifi works anyway, Skyped parents briefly from reception/common area but was sadly abrupt with them. Skype phone app apparently automatically and irrevocably switches to speakerphone mode if the other party turns video on, presmably on grounds you can't see it while holding phone to ear, but what a super way to be embarassed in public by something you don't control.
2129 Losing plot a bit. Want beer and food. OKish bar near hostel but tiny and only seats at the bar. For all the fact I'm feeling intimidated and a sad loser by all this shit, I really really don't want to sit at the bar and feel awkward and/or scrape aquaintance with someone. I want some food and I want to sit quietly and have a couple of beers to take the edge off :-) before I go to bed.
Not sure I am hungry but I am starting to feel a bit irrational and although I had some peanuts on bus etc probably a good idea to eat properly before beer.
I hope things will look better tomorrow, more than likely they will after food. I think I'm just being swirled around in the current a little bit and the dormitory thing means I haven't been able to consider myself 'settled' for a few minutes as I normally would once I get to hotel. Bit worried about phone battery but I have the spare - I brought it out with me - and at 51% and I may 'meditate' rather than read or write over food/drink plus I can prob loiter in reception for an hour or two at some discreet time tomorrow while I charge it.
Having churrasco with french fries and water with gas.
I really honestly am not particularly craving any kind of company, the hostel thing just makes me feel so fucking alone, it's massively irrational and I have done it before and it is fine and I'm just in a fucked up kind of mood right now and also I guess the more you do anything the easier it gets. I am there because it's a damn sight cheaper than a hotel; if I only stay tonight and waste the money paid for the following two nights I would still only be slightly worse off than if I'd just stayed in a hotel all three nights anyway.
2153 Food not bad, virtually inhaled the steak. 76 and adding 8 for tip. Probably be back here... Beer. Place is El Chiringuito.
2158 At delightfully deserted bar not far from hostel, 40 for a litre of Heineken which isn't too bar.
2205 Crash Test Dummies' "Afternoons and Coffeespoons" playing, makes me smile somehow. I really am the only person here, except for the two bar staff.
2215 Was some quite attractive if slightly desolate lake scenery from bus. Snapped several pictures. Got a slight Puerto Natales vibe from it. Did find myself wondering if I would have done better just to fly BA-Bariloche but even if that would have been better, hindsight is 20-20. It was slightly cool to see Viedma and Neuquen anyway, but for all I know they could in some way have been great, then I'd have missed out on that by flying direct to Bariloche. Besides, I do kind of like my 'guideline' to avoid flying when I can go overland, it makes the geography and the distance a bit more real somehow. Even the views from the bus today, while not amazing, were something I'd miss out on flying. Yes, I would have saved time but that probably isn't the right way to look at it.
2220 Acoustic version of The Cure's Boys Don't Cry (by The Cure, not a cover)
2234 Oh, the hostel did forget to allow the 10% hostelworld prepayment and also forgot to give me 50 of my change when I paid, but apart from the fact we were doing this in English I was super alert to getting it right. I don't think there was any tricky intent there, but who knows?
Oh, I was at Hostal Liberty in Neuquen (a small hotel, despite the name - had a private ensuite single bedded room). And if I forget to say was Hotel Austral in Viedma.
Some people are coming into the bar, I oddly resent them. This is my sullen (not feeling that sullen now, but still) drinking den, keep out!
2243 They had no cash and they don't take cards, they have gone to get cash.
The English speaking woman at the hostel (maybe there's more than one, but when I failed to understand 'dime' I was punted over to this other woman) intermittently fails to understand me. Maybe it's my non-US English - "cash machine" drew a blank - or my accent or maybe because I am a bit edgy I am speaking quickly or badly or something - "when do I have to be back by?" as I left threw her too. Not doing it on purpose. Shouldn't feel smug about that but maybe it kind of turns the tables (albeit on a different person) on the situation where I don't immediately understand their Spanish and they switch me over to English. (I was fairly sure is 24h reception and it is but wanted to ask.)
2252 I was hanging around at reception desk before came out trying to find someone to ask about 24h reception, seemed to be a bit ignored and usual problem with hostel where hard to be sure who is staff and who isn't, I don't even like to take 'popping behind the desk' as evidence. Also feeling I've been labelled as English speaking I am irrationally inhibited from speaking Spanish.
I did sort of drowse on bus but not all the time. Wasn't a bad journey but I felt overwhelmed by a lot of uncertainty (for purely practical reasons not going into here Ziggy being ill has implications, nothing to do with it being upsetting) and the delay in arrival etc and worries about onward plans made me a bit over concerned. I have some idea it might be desirable to try for a sort of tour to take me south to El Chalten or on further to Calafate (where I shall head over to Chile) via RN40 but although I will check guide book (prob not tonight, tomorrow) I think I may simply try to get to El Chalten for a few days once I leave here. I would need to check I can get from El Chalten to Calafate before doing that, should be OK. Not a problem for tonight. If I need to stay here an extra night or two for whatever reason no problem, at least there is lots of accommodation here.
2301 Oh, this place is "NYC's". It is not exactly spit and sawdust but it's not particularly fancy; mainly a little minimalistically stylish if anything. Tis OK. Live music or something would be nice another night but in a way I'd prefer that somewhere a bit less touristy. Still, no reason not to enjoy it here if I find somewhere it can be had.
2323 Few other people here now BTW. Literally a few. Cure's acoustic version of can't remember name but "Go on, just walk away" playing.
2326 Acoustic version of "Learn To Fly" playing (Foo Fighters IIRC, not Pink Floyd!). Somehow reminds me of Eat & Drink and raises a smile. Not feeling particularly sullen any more, though not exactly flying on wings of joy or even alcohol.
2329 As if it matters, the "no cash" party has not returned yet.
2340 It's an acoustic Cure fest! Two more tracks. I have a greatest hits album with two CDs, one original and one acoutic, I wonder if this is what they are playing. Think have heard quite a bit of Cure here, wonder if they are popular in Argentina. Probably not.
2355 On second litre btw. Not really drunk in a good or bad way but though a third is slightly tempting under circumstances no. If nothing else I will probably be out every night while here since I can't quietly bum around in room so best not go insane on the daily alcohol consumption.
0029 Obviously I am an alcoholic/a twat/a fallible human being/someone who enjoys a drink now and then and has a fertile mind and a phone loaded with books who can enjoy himself alone (I am flicking betwen meditation, a Python tutorial and J K Jerome.). Not having a third litre but got a pint of some local artesanal stuff for ARS25. I do wonder why they serve pints, it must be some historical quirk. Tis OK. The situation I mean. The beer is OK too, that is slightly faint praise. It isn't bitter but it isn't lager, it has some body. Was super careful to ask if I had time for another, though no signs of closing (honestly, of all the cultural scars I bear, the deepest is the WW1 closing time) and guy was sweet. I won't stay after this, I am not exactly embarassed but given I have to ring for entrance to hostel then collect daypack off bed to clean teeth and swig water then get undressed in there and climb up into bed I don't want to be off my face. But I am an experienced toper and it will be OK. This is effectively five pints, albeit probably at 5%, on top of food and hardly an insane pissup.
0050 Quite a few people here now, probably locals. More evidence for the late culture I have intuited elsewhere eg in Viedma. Try as I might to appreciate this, and FFS it's not as if I've never left the UK before, this always freaks me out and confuses me. Not so much that people are out late (and maybe drink slowly) as that they *start* so late.
0108 OK, nearly finished pint. Is slightly tempting to stay out just cos atmosphere is nice but I'm slightly pissed, maybe tomorrow night if I can somehow stay at hostel til then, be good to come out about 11. But I need to head back now, battery 27%, next entry probably be feeble from bed in hostel worried about disturbing people. Have no fucking idea if dormitory be full of people sleeping or if I will be first back.
0119 English speaking woman and some other woman ouside smoking as returned to hostel. Got daypack from bed, in queue for bathroom with some half dressed chap. Tis OK but I am thinking, as I walked brief route back obvioujsly still early at night and this is a first. But this is orthogonal to fact I am in hostel. I hoped to find BA lively but it wasn't when & where I was. (Woman Daniella and friend Noella, I think/hope, she apologised for not remembering my name, as if I care.) Here prob because is v touristy is partyish even Tue night, but that is semi independent of being in hostel. Looked like couple of bodies in beds in dorm as picked up daypack. Feeling quite mellow tbh. Tomorrow night would be good to not go out til 11ish and maybe take a chance speaking to random group of people in a bar, maybe NYC.Anyway, tomorrow night's question is how to loiter in hostel til 11pm, for now quick destroyer tactics phone charge in bog and clean teeth and bed. Irrational but in a good way I feel sort of less like a sad outsider simply because I am returning here at 0125. Fuck it all, rational or otherwise.
0132 Stood in bathroom door stil charging phone. Battery 34% but every little helps. Would rather not touch spare and yet no matter how tomorrow as a whole pans out will doubtless be up late and even ignoring any social issues would prefer not to spend even ten minutes loitering in hostel getting a charge.
0137 In bed. Notwithstanding bonhomie of prev entries feel bit crap. Anyway, let's try to sleep.
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