Buenos Aires, Tuesday

1125 Slept appallingly, couldn't get off, dunno if was too hot or was because I was thinking about getting up in time for lesson. Skype connection was appalling, despite being tolerable talking to parents last night, lesson not a complete writeoff but worst ever and probably worth about 25% of one working wel. Maybe hotel wifi is congested during day.

It's raining quite heavily now. In a way good as it may cool things down, but I really don't want to wear my coat to go out and obviously that wouldn't protect trousers. Will wing it. Had shower before lesson, still feel a bit clammy but will go out and fingers crossed. Need to wd cash, which means leaving bank card not hidden, which is not ideal but can't be helped. If get ticket OK may eat at small restaurant I remember near terminal then head down and see if I can get in on one of those subterranean place tours (last is 3pm), if not as long as am OK with bus may book for tomorrow.

Anyway no point wasting more time here. Let's make a move.

1359 At 'Aqui me quedo' round corner from El Zajon (sp) the underground place sheltering from rain under canopy at outside table. Rang buzzer at El Zajon about 50 mins ago and they said I could have a

1403 come inside cos is truly pissing it down, will get soaked on way to EZ if this doesn't stop by time I go. Said I could have tour in English at 3 and to turn up 5 mins before. Didn't go in (I asked) or pay or give my name so fingers crossed.

Went to bus terminal, found Fredes office on list easily, they only had cama suite but otherwise super easy. IIRC was ARS615. Then got a large chipa (which turns out to be a slightly cheesy bread shaped in a ring) and bottle of diet coke at shop near terminal and decided to head over here to get that tour instead of wasting time on sit down meal when not mega hungry. Wandered down to Museo de Bellas Artes after speaking to EZ but didn't try to go in as probably not free and didn't have much time. Bought and ate couple of bananas at small fruit shop and a bottle of Fanta Zero just before. Am trying to ensure my thirst is slaked before I go eat anywhere, given how expensive and small the drinks are in restaurants.

Just having 'cafe' (which is probably espresso) as it's cheapest and calorie free. ARS15 plus tip. Rain slowed down, fingers crossed. Sky was blue yday, today greyer but in a way it's quite refreshing, as long as I don't get soaked.

Anyway, since killing time lets recap hotel saga. Just got another email over cafe wifi.

Yday at cafe got email from booking.com addressed to hotel which was bit incomprehensible but saying if I had problems to take it up with my bank. I replied saying what did that have to do with anything, that their reply was not only dismissive but suggested they didn't even understand my complaint and were they saying a hotel could quote prices in USD and use any rate they fancied if you pay in local currency.

When I got back to hotel after I picked up my key and chap on desk said his boss had told him to refund me ARS120 (I didn't ask). After mulling in my room I then decided since I now had no beef with hotel to see if I could stay on there (a known quantity and less hassle) paying with my spare dollars (might as well *use* them) for another two nights, and I could. So I got 9.5ARS for each of my 60 dollars and since I wasn't through booking.com got the room for ARS410 for two nights. I later emailed booking.com to say I was still confused by their email but thanks for their help and that although I hoped hotel's pricing on their web site would be clarified I was personally satisfied.

The email I just got is dismissive and tells me the price I booked at was in USD and that the hotel would convert to local currency at the current exchange rate. Which I knew and never disputed, the issue being the rate the hotel used which I had no way to know, and their email makes no mention of this aspect. So they really not only don't seem to give a flying fuck, they persist in not even appearing to understand. It isn't even clear if they are responsible for me getting that cash back yday now; their email just received seems dismissive rather than acknowledging my thanks for their help. Maybe the hotel just decided to after booking.com said I was unhappy but didn't otherwise exert any pressure. Pretty unimpressed with their customer service, but since I have my cash back not going to continue arguing with some mindless drone who clearly doesn't want to understand or try to escalate.

Keane's album with Everyone's Changing on seems to be playing.

1425 Still wet out but not torrential. Pretty full in here so feel a bit guilty occupying this table with my dwindling coffee, despite what I hear about this being acceptable here.

1749 At cafe Aconcagua in San Telmo. Was going to have chicken but sod it, bife de costilla with french fries. Menu says grapefruit juice but not on so diet coke. El Zajon (sp) v interesting, guide good, though frankly bit pricey at 120 ARS even for an hour's tour. Modern art museum free today and v good. Some cool geometrical stuff, interesting if oddly creepy display of faint lights in darkened room, a wooden spiral and a bizarrely fascinating display of Edmonson (sp) railway tickets and some railway paraphernalia (ABTE; agrupacion de boletos tipo Edmonson). Didn't take photos at first then went round a second time taking photos.

Tried to check out Mitos Argentinos bar (found in web search at aqui me quedo earlier) but proving elusive. Website needs flash and didn't work on phone. Will go back to hotel via supermarket after this and check it out from there. Few beers and if possible some live music would be nice. Today has been good so far, BA is growing on me somehow.

1823 Bill 83, adding 9 tip. Food OK though this cut of steak is evidently rather fatty and on bone but nonetheless the bits I ate were good. Anyway, back to hotel via shops.

2036 Been back at hotel a while, Skyped parents v briefly, internet still v poor. Somewhat hastily done some laundry. Done bit of research on bars, heading out shortly and will wing it. Bit nervous and feel a bit sad, FFS, done this a million times, not even desperate for anything to happen, couple of beers and a read of a book is absolutely fine. Live music probably a non starter, and Mitos Argentinos is Fri-Sun only BTW. Will send this now in case lose phone...