Tbilisi, Monday night

1923 OK, looking on guide book and online I am toying with flying to Mestia on Wednesday; hostelworld has a hostel there (more than one actually). To buy the tickets for the flight I think you need to go to the office in Tbilisi; 65-67 Vazha Pshavela Ave, east of metro station Delisi. This is monstrously unclear. However, that has an adventurous tone I like. You can go via bus from Zugdidi (which is 2-3h from Mestia and 5h from Tbilisi). I would kind of like to fly in then get bus out Zugdidi. Hostelworld has hostels in Zugdidi too. I think this sounds like a plan. I will email the may-or-may-not work address for the flight booking and if I get no response (or a response but need to go over there and pay anyway) I may wander over to the office tomorrow. It will give me an excuse to use the metro. If that falls through I guess I may get a bus to Zugdidi and see how that goes.

Hmm, web searching more these flights may no longer exist. It looks like there is a train to Zugdidi so that might well be my best option; it is heading in the right direction.

railway.ge says there is a train Tbilisi-Zugdidi leaving 08:50 and arrriving 17:25 (it's 317km!) on 16th October. There is also a night training leaving Tbilisi 21:10 arriving 06:25. I think all things being equal I'd be better on the day train, though an 08:50 departure is savage. There are hostels available for 16th October onwards (though only three in town on hostelworld, I think).

Fuck it, I've booked a hostel in Zugdidi for 16-19 Oct (three nights, check out 19). Paid the extra quid to protect the deposit in case I can't get a train ticket, will go to station tomorrow. That means Tue night will have to be a quiet one but that's fine, strongly suggests I should have Spanish lesson tomorrow night. Was going to stay in a place that did only single private rooms for 20 EUR a night but the website seemed broken so I went somewhere else with good reviews (including some from middle-aged people like myself) and will chance a 4-bed dorm. FFS, I have done it before and it is cheap and I can spring for a private room in Mestia if I feel like it.

2102 Booked Spanish lesson for 7pm tomorrow night; the time zone doesn't really work in my favour here but should be OK. Skyped parents briefly and it seemed to work well so fingers crossed. Shaved somewhat badly (left shaving oil in room so used soap, seemed OKish) and illictly washed set of underwear and my jumper (left sink plug in room too, so rather poor even had I not been rushing to avoid detection ;-) ). Anyway, going to head out and see what I can obtain by way of food, beer and entertainment. Not reading guide book, I have vague idea where I can find 'something' and let's play the serendipity card.

2137 At Grace Garden somewhere off Kote Afkhaze. Winged it a bit with no external menu but at least there are people here. Clearly not Georgian food, possibly German oriented. All the steaks come with foul sauces so having a pepperoni pizza and a badly labelled but probably 500ml bottle Natakhtari. Nowhere seemed obviously fantastic on walk over (I guess it is Monday, also it's possibly early by local standards), there is a karaoke bar just down street which also says live music every day, but it's in a basement. I might try that for a beer after this, I'd rather not do a mini pub crawl (well, I don't mind, but rather find somewhere OK and stick with it) but I want to get some food in first then I can be a bit more free-and-easy.

Yes, it's 500ml bottle and 4.5%. Stronger than I'd like but acceptable.

Sat on terrace, since that's what everyone else seems to be doing.

2157 Finished pizza. Not bad. Bit meh about where to go next. I just need to not make a big deal about it. A few beers, maybe something interesting will happen, maybe it won't. I'm not going to get pissed unless anything really interesting happens and I expect tomorrow night (early train next day) and the following night (been on train all day) will be relatively low-alcohol.

Streets on walk over a bit dark round hostel before hitting more populous areas but not overly threatening. Biggest annoyances where cars parked on pavement or it otherwise ceases to exist for some reason and you have to wait for a gap in the traffic to be able to cross to the other side to continue journey on that pavement.

Left passport in room for first time, also camera as is my general habit at night. Sure it will be fine, I have been carrying passport in hidden belt during day as I figure the chances of a serious 'strip to the skin' mugging are low and there's no safe in the hostel room, but at night I figure it gets a bit riskier out (also I might get seriously pissed and somehow lose hidden belt, though very unlikely.) plus I judge the hostel to be not massively insecure.

Dunno if it's draught v bottle or some change in my palate but this bottled Natakhtari has a somewhat sweet aftertaste. It's OK but not quite what I'd like. Will probably pass as I drink more... (I think this is 'the' local beer, though far from sure. German beer seems to have the premium niche sewn up.)

Guide booklet hostel gave me has an ad (in English, of course) for a strip club with "the hottest strippers from the Ukraine" (I think it does say *the* Ukraine, but I could be wrong). I have no idea what, if anything, this says about Georgia.

Other people on terrace seem to be speaking English but with non-native accents. I do wonder if this is the German equivalent of Ibiza. Not that I'm by any means confident these guys are German, it's just the easy guess given the somewhat German provenance of this bar and some of the others I've seen.

Bit bored here to be honest and keen to move on, on the grounds it can't be any more dull ;-). However I have some beer left and I'm not going to neck it or leave it. Should maybe ask for the bill to save a bit of time, let's see if I get chance.

Asked somewhat supercilious waiter for bill. He spoke English but seemed a bit unclear so used international hand gesture too. GEL 21.45. Want to make it 25 with fairly generous tip but had to put 30 in notes in. Fingers crossed I get some change. Having this beer left plays to my advantage I guess. Even at 25 that's ten quid for a pizza and a beer, which I can hardly regard as particularly cheap. Obviously I have been in very slightly upmarket places generally where they speak English so I can't expect it to be super cheap but still.

Mini sign on table advertises 'Red Round' which looks like three full cans of Red Bull and presumably three vodkas (?) for GEL 27. 3x50ml ie double spirits, whatever they are.

Starting to doubt I will get any change. I didn't have a 5 note otherwise I'd just have used that. Do feel it's a touch cheeky not to give change but what can you do? Maybe some will turn up as I nurse this beer. Ah, it has. Ah, they automatically (I think, saw it on menu) added 10% service. But that was surely in the amount quoted. But they've given me exacttly GEL 5 as a note in change. Fuck knows, and fuck 'em. I'm keeping this 5. It's 2220 BTW. May not continue this exciting live stream of notes if I feel next place is either diverting, scary or both. Only 'cos I am bored here but feel unthreatened and certain no one who might have talked to me is going to be put off by my phone antics am I bothering now.

Night air starting to feel just slightly chilly.

2228 At table downstairs in karaoke section of 'Friend's House'. Not that busy, group of women up front just finished singing 'Dancing in the moonlight'. Table service, getting draught beer of some description. Took first table could see (near stairs) as felt bit awkward. Meh. It's all experience. Wow, they're doing "Hallelujah" (Leonard Cohen) now. Doubt I will sing unless gets much busier or I get more pissed but it is interesting.

"Make you feel my love" - Sunfly Karaoke, the old familiar brand. ;-) Strains of presumably live jazz from restaurant upstairs but I don't fancy drinking in a restaurant, and the jazz is a tiny bit bland. Perhaps a bit unfair, sounds livelier now. This might be more diverting anyway, and the restaurant issue also factors in. Not changing horses in midstream. ;-)

2307 Getting another beer. Not sure I am likely to meet a.nyone in here but that's not the only factor, it's cosy enough and interesting mix of Georgian and English songs. I might not come back another time - there are other karaoke bars, for a start ;-) - but I doubt I could find them right now and I want to give this a fair shot. Might go home (possibly trying to find something else interesting looking en route) after next beer, but one more here won't hurt. I feel a tiny bit pissed which is a bit odd (after two, I assume this afternoon's two only count for liver damage not drunkenness) but what the hell.

Women in here not bad looking if not absolutely stunning. Can't see why they'd need to import Ukrainian strippers, at least on physical grounds. Maybe these are Ukrainian. ;-) Or maybe the locals are too shy.

Just had a Russian song - can only tell by the alphabet of the lyrics. Incidentally, the bar at top of funicular was called (in the Latin alphabet sign anyway) Chela Funicular, which seemed oddly Spanishy. There was no bar at the top of the cable car, BTW, otherwise would have had a beer there.

2336 Got bill. 6.60. Meh, make it 10 and not faff. Two quid a beer not too bad. If change turns up before I finish beer will take a bit but wtf. Going to wander and see what happens. No big deal, but don't see huge value in staying here. Interesting experience but not worth prolonging. Assuming this is Nawhatsit the draught does seem to lack the sweet aftertaste. Had a slash, so I'm good to go.

Place is clearly called Friend's House full stop, as one customer asked what it was called (evidently texting a friend) in non-English and bar staff said Friend's House. Got change, taken 1 GEL for hell of it.

0042 Just got back to hostel (which is v quiet). Didn't have another beer.

Wandered. Couple of bar/club-y streets of Kofte Afkhazi. Sort of flirted with going into Voice karaoke club, but milled around near entrance and no one spoke to me. Group speaking mix of English/Georgian turned up, seemed to be no space for them tho not clear. Seemed a bit poncily weird so didn't push it. Wandered up towards Freedom Sq. Wine bar had some guys outside doing a song which currently escapes me, but no obvious tables free and also v wine-ish.

Wandered east of Freedom Sq, saw sign saying 'Beer Pub' with open flashing. This was just after midnight. Went in, thinking what the hell. Few people at tables. Waitress got up as I approached bar.

Me: Gamarjoba
Her: Gamarjoba
Me: Do you speak English?
Her: A little.
Me: Could I have a beer please?
Her: What beer?
Me (looks at taps): Carlsberg?
Her: Carlsberg is off.
Me (looks at taps again)
Her: And we are closed.
Me: I'm sorry (leaves)

I had had three pints, I wouldn't drive (as if I could anyway) but I was not remotely pissed. Why she let it go on that long I don't know. Maybe they were closed. Still odd.

Wandered back up Kofte whatsit. Could *probably* have had a beer in any number of places down there, though none rammed and most could have been closing and it's possible they would have said no. Wasn't that desperate, wanted beer+atmosphere not just a beer. Am sure-ish Stenze Haus would have been open (though it looked empty, as always) given it says 24h. Frankly nowhere looked particularly enjoyably busy or had (recorded would do) music playing. Wine shop place said open til 2am outside but I didn't want wine and it still seemed rather quiet, though a few people in. I appreciate it's Monday night and I can't say I am gutted and I will save myself for another night. Temperature v pleasantly cool and oddly 'romantic' walking the streets like that for quite some time (always a sucker for that sort of thing). Felt v safe, even down the off-the-main-drag walk along Lado Asathani from Kofte Afkhazi to hostel. Few (not many) people about even down there, odd car including taxis passing, quite a few people around KA. Perhaps I was living in a fool's paradise, but that's not such a bad place to be maybe. As I say, for a Monday especially I wouldn't expect much but still.

Anyway, clean teeth and bed.