Tbilisi, Tuesday

0108 Just cleaned teeth. Some bloke eating in kitchen said hi.

Before went out [to clean teeth] was flicking through guide leaflet (Tbilisi in your pocket). Entry for this hostel reminds me (it said on hostelworld) the hostel owners have a bar, maybe I should have tried that tonight or maybe (with due caution) tomorrow night. Also somewhat odd box headlined 'Ultimate experience' which includes such entries as:

Underground discos F-4 Rose Revolution Sq, metro Rustaveli. Located under the Rose Revolution Square is a sleazy subterranean network of nightclubs and bars. This nocturnal world feels like it is straight out of zombie apocalypse B movie. Foreigners are exceedingly rare visitors, though for that reason, they can be rather welcome. If you venture in, you do so at your own risk. Keep your wits about you and not recommended for women, especially alone. Open 24 hours.

I mean, WTF? It sounds bizarrely exciting but still. Would I go to some area described like that in Latin America, where I at least have a fighting chance with the language? Probably not, unless some ostensibly tourist-friendly guidebook made it sound OK (because if it was enter-and-you-get-stabbed, surely it wouldn't be mentioned at all). Am I dull not to want to go there? Hell, I sort of do. Am I stupid? I ain't going anyway, not speaking the language and fortunately saved by the early train at least until I return here in a week-and-a-bit, but maybe I am dull. Meh.

1606 At Aqua pub. Hoping to eat here after this afternoon's expedition. Will waffle while I wait for someone to notice am here.

Alarms at - FFS, they're playing Pompeii by Bastille! - 10 and 11. Didn't even snooze on the 10, just cancelled it. Snoozed repeatedly on the 11 one, possibly even changing it to go later. Got up about 1pm. Kept feeling cold in room and didn't want to get out of bed, probably just one of those things. Loud group talking probably in kitchen but not sure. Did hear something about water being off. When I finally dragged myself out to clean my teeth and have a shit it was off; I wasn't planning to shower til tonight anyway given my late start etc, and I was using bottled water to clean teeth, but I realised when I tried to wash my hands after toilet.

Anyway, metro from Freedom Square to Station Square to buy ticket. (Menu! Ordered beer and Iranian Chicken Kebab. No description on most items, fingers crossed it won't be sauced up. Beer too.) Didn't take any photos in metro. Freedom Square metro must be several miles below the surface of the earth, the escalator tunnel seems insanely long. Touched through barrier with card bought at cable car yesterday. Stations announced in English so no trouble at all.

Bit grubby down there but not particularly bad.

Found station (it looks like a shopping centre) and went in. First ticket window woman didn't speak English but directed me to booth 2. She did, more or less. Got a ticket no problem, despite all the 'book two days in advance' crap I'd been worried about. 6 GEL!! Admittedly it is slow as hell, but 6 GEL!! She had to see my passport which I was expecting but still annoying and meant I've had the hidden belt just under my shirt all day as I haven't had a chance to use a bog to shove it back under trousers.

Then decided I'd try to walk back to Freedom Square kind of area, stopping first place I saw for food. This was probably 2pm ish. Used Google Maps to navigate back to west side of river. Passed through rather shabby but not over threatening market, quite busy, reminded me of some I have seen in Latin America. Fortunately I paid 0.50 for a banana at one stall. It was OK, as I say I don't mind them.

Then basically got stuck with a huge motorway-esque road junction, flyovers, roundabouts, the lot. Ended up walking along a sort of walkway up the side of one road as it rose to an elevated roundabout; the walkway just petered out into nothing. Getting hot, knackered and hungry. Also thinking about having to be back for Spanish lesson at 7.

Doubled back and found huge deserted subway under part of the road. Didn't take me in direction I wanted but seemed a bit less desolately motorway-esque that side of the street. Was a bus stop but nothing obviously right for me. Wandered up street, it did turn more 'normal' with shops and pedestrians. Finally crossed the street and after walking into a '24/24' bar/restaurant which had the door open but on going upstairs seemed deserted managed to get a cab. The driver spoke no English but I dredged 'tavisuplebis moedani' off my phone. He asked if I was German, I told him (in Georgian, yay) I was English. "Tbilisi good?" Thumbs up. Nice chap really. Gave him 10, not sure if that's excessive [I think it was,Tbilisi in your pocket says taxis in town are 3-6] but WTF, he got me out of a hole. Now want food and then may wander before lesson.

Oh, the ticket itself and the printed timetable at the station both say 08:50 but the woman who sold it me said 8:15, even repeating it when I asked. I strongly suspect she just has 'fifty' and 'fifteen' mixed up, but dare I risk it? It's a long enough day even with an 08:50 train and getting there in plenty of time. I need to see if I can buy more water and chocolate/peanuts to help sustain me on the journey tomorrow. No idea if there are bogs on the train, will just have to hope and try not to drink too much water.

1640 Kebab pretty good, just the meat off skewer with a grilled tomato and onion. I ate the mostly-inner bits of the tomato and the onions, hope I don't regret that. Not enormously substantial, thinking I might get chicken and rice as well. White splodgy cat sat and watched me eat.

1650 Just engaged in linguistic oddysey with two waitresses to hopefully get some boiled chicken and rice (it says boiled on the menu, they have a grill in the corner and grilled chicken would be much better but meh) as well. I don't know if they thought I was complaining about my previous meal or what. Feels a bit lardy but WTF. Feeling a bit disconnected, the Spanish lesson in part is a bit of a fixed thing looming in the future, then there's the question of occupying myself tonight. I think I might pack and try to shower and upload some photos and maybe go out to eat again tonight and get back about 10 or 11.

Was feeling this morning as I was lying in bed I seem to be making a bit of a hash of things with regard to time. I am booked in Zwhatsit for three nights, which takes me to Friday. If I then go to Mwhatsit and stay for three nights that takes me to Monday. I think I'd have to spend another night in Zwhatsit on the way back, so that's Tuesday night. I fly back out on Saturday, so this doesn't seem to leave me much time to go to eg Batumi, unless I want to be really rushed in Tbilisi on my return. You can I think fly from Batumi to Tbilisi but even doing that, I wouldn't be there til Wednesday night at the earliest and if I spent two nights I'd be flying back to Tbilisi on Friday just in time to fly out the day after. Am I just being hard on myself or am I somehow managing to make incredibly poor use of my time? FFS, it's only my second full day here and already I seem to have run out of time and ballsed it up.

I guess I may or may not go on to Mwhatsit from Zwhatsit, and if I do and that means I don't go to eg Batumi then so be it. I'd like to do Gavit Dsomething (this is without a guide book so fuck it that I'm getting names completely wrong) even if only as a day trip from Tbilisi. Maybe if they do still exist I could get a flight back from Mwhatsit to Tbilisi. That is probably not an option but it would get me back here Tuesday night with plenty of time for such a day trip.

Or maybe I could get a bus from Mwhatsit to somewhere instead of back to Zwhatsit, though I am far from clear that is possible.

Overheard someone talking in kitchen other day, they said they had been here (I assume meaning that specific hostel) three days, and presumably they were getting on for their fourth. Am I haring around excessively? FFS, it generally feels like staying three nights instead of two is taking it a bit slowly. Maybe they have all the time in the world, but FFS I've got six months, I don't think I'm spreading myself too thinly across different countries and here I am getting worked up about it. I guess I'll never know how it works for everyone else.

As I have observed before, I really am a shit tourist. To judge from the guide book you could see half the country in two weeks. Meh. Seems like I just can't win. Maybe I am travelling at the worst possible rate; faster and there'd be more momentum, more seen and done; slower and there'd be less pressure. Fuck it. If you can't do something well you have to learn to enjoy doing it badly. All those people who are going to say "what? you didn't see X?" can go fuck themselves sideways.

1718 Far from confident this chicken with rice is going to turn up. Feeling a tiny bit cold.

1726 Confidence declining further. Nursing this beer. FFS.

1738 Fuck this. Going to see if can get bill. Maybe I can have a shower and stuff before the lesson if I get back a bit early. Recollection of room being cold this morning doesn't exactly make it seem a welcoming haven to lurk in for several hours tonight. I am definitely going to have to go out for food after the lesson anyway, maybe I can stay out til 10ish and go straight to bed when I return.

I am sat outside where I was yesterday. Should probably have gone inside, though I guess it was warmer when I arrived. The uncertainty of tomorrow and the stress of getting up early and so on is getting to me, I think. Maybe this suggests I should in general try to stay in one place for longer. On the other hand, I'm sure it varies. In Latin America the buses generally hold less fear and I know where I stand. No point denying I feel annoyingly isolated in the hostel with all those people talking outside the room etc. I guess that shouldn't be such an issue tonight as everyone will be out.

13.09 bill -they haven't charged for the food I didn't get - but only had a crumpled 5 and a 20 so had to give a 20 and will hope I get change.

1748 Got change, since they'd already added 10% on to get 13.09 I have taken 6 out of the change and just left the really small coins. Anyway, off to hostel and maybe buy food for tomorrow and water on the way.

2121 At Taj Mahal off Kofte Abkhazi, having mutton do piazza with yellow rice, a plain naan and a glass of Natakhtari. Small and unpretentious. Middle aged group at next table discussing atheism v agnosticism in English. Not sure if all guests speaking English. This place is in the Tbilisi in your pocket guide leaflet but I also saw it my first morning here.

Waitress asked if I wanted it spicy or not spicy and wouldn't be put off with a 'well, fairly spicy'. I asked what most people had and she said 'full spiced', so I went for that.

Went to mini supermarket near hostel before Spanish lesson, got supplies in for tomorrow. Not packed as such yet but I figure I can do that when I get back. Spanish lesson OK if not great, I perhaps came across a bit whiny in our conversation. ;-) Still no water at hostel, hope whoever sits next to me on train isn't going to be too upset. I did take a whizz in the bog before coming out and was unable to flush it, but what are you going to do?

Feeling rather better now (not eaten here yet, but had some grapefruit juice and a packet of spicy TUC crackers from supermarket before lesson) than earlier. Maybe I'm running a risk with my bowels eating here but I have to eat something. Twill be fine. Probably have a beer or two after this, we'll see.

Have precached map of Zugdidi so I'm all set for arrival.

Set alarm for 0730. If I can get up then I think that's OK, shove few things left out overnight in bag, clean teeth and out of the door by 0745. That gives me an hour to get to the platform, and I don't think it takes even half an hour. Maybe I should try for earlier, I dunno. Still, at least that is set now so I can't forget it.

2216 GEL 31.90 including 10% service charge but irrationally leaving 2.60 in change as well. Pretty good and nicely spicy, although I fucking hope I don't get sick when there is not even a fucking working toilet back at the hostel. Got a business card the first time I asked for the bill, which will be a small souvenir. Made sure I used different words when asking for bill second time since didn't want to cause offence by waitress realising I hadn't actually asked for a card the first time. :-)

Drinking too much lately but given toilet situation back at hostel I am inclined to go have one at eg Stenze Haus or whatever it's called where there is a working bog. I hope there's a bog at the station tomorrow morning if not on the train.

2226 At *Stelzen Haus*, it's written on the canopy now I'm sat a bit more out on the terrace not under it. Not entirely sure why I am outside but everyone else is and it's not really cold.

My life is in danger of turning into the Operation Jubilee episode of Operation Good Guys. "Jubilee 2 must never be more than six feet from a toilet." ;-) On the other hand, while I am worrying a bit too much, being 7h from a toilet doesn't seem too unreasonable a thing to fret about. I should trust in loperamide and my ability to piss into a plastic bottle. :-)

Bit worried about the fact I'm drinking too much because from a practical standpoint it doesn't seem it. I had five half-litres all day yesterday (two of those at lunch) and this makes three all day today, and I just had one on Sunday. So it's hardly like I'm royally on the piss, but this is going to add up to too much a week. Maybe I'll feel able or compelled to hang around the hostel a bit more in Zugdidi, or I'll go on a coffee bender instead. I suppose I should cut myself some slack, I'm *not* out getting pissed and I need to find a drinking 'rhythm' that works while I'm away, pretty much as I had done in London.

One of the waitresses said hello, I suppose I have been here for the last three days.

2311 Drunk about 1/3 of this beer. Chiselled out a probably rather grim e-mail to Rab.

As I said earlier, Spanish lesson not great and a bit of problem with the connection quality but we basically managed. I don't think I am likely to improve a great deal with lessons while on holiday, though maybe I will be able to find time to sit around and study/do homework some evenings, but the key thing is to keep in practice so I at least don't slip backwards.

Spain-Georgia football match on TV.

This really isn't the carefree jollification I had in mind when I was sat back at my desk in the UK. I guess I just need a bit of time to settle down and get into the swing of things. I think I'd be a lot more relaxed and could adopt a devil-may-care attitude if I could just regain my trust in my own bowels. To be scrupulously fair, they've actually behaved themselves since their doubtless panic-induced efforts on Sunday morning.

This is the best blog in the world, isn't it?

As waffled earlier I am inclining to not getting too het up about seeing as much as I can. Three nights in one place is hardly taking it mega slowly, and at least it gives me some chance to settle into each place.

Not that language has been a massive problem but I do also think this exposure to a country where I don't speak the language is good experience, and will probably make me feel more smug/confident/appreciative in Latin America after Christmas as well. I do need to at least think about booking some of those flights soon, maybe I will mull over possible routes on the train tomorrow.

Since I'm writing this to fill time, not because even I think it's interesting, I'll observe I managed to get the phone battery I depleted on the flights recharged tonight during Spanish lesson, so if I leave phone on charge overnight I should have a full complement. The Nook is working nicely as something to read in bed/on the flights anyway. Finished Tau Zero the other night, it was good but it's an odd book to read while feeling (irrationally, but still) adrift in a strange place. (I don't think I'm homesick yet, FFS, it's the feeling ill that makes it stressful rather than exciting to be away from home.) On the one hand the situation in the book is so extreme it puts things in perspective, but at the same time it strikes a bit more of a chord than it otherwise might and perhaps emphasises my own situation. (That is massively overblown, but WTF.)

2330 now. 1/3 beer left. Need to be getting back, it's going to be gone midnight by the time I pack anyway. Meh, I had loads of sleep last night and I shouldn't worry too much about that aspect, but I do need to get back soonish.

2347 7.15, made it 10.Whatever. Home.

0054 Been back a while. Packed except for bits can't do until morning. Noticed big bottles of water in bathrooms for manual toilet flushing, which is a relief ;-) though I feel much more upbeat now. Anyway, to bed.