Tbilisi-Zugdidi

Wed 0830 On train. Large seats, generally spacious, very run down. Not sure about toilet yet, dithering over whether to take a loperamide.

At least know am on right train as there was a guy checking tickets as I got on. He wanted to see my passport, then when I'd dredged it out he didn't look at it. Arrivals but no departures board in main hall, had to ask at a window which platform. Platform signage not fantastic either. I made sure I recognised the Georgian alphabet version of Zugdidi from the timetable before I came down to the platform and it was written on side of train.

No one sat next to me yet, fingers crossed.

Scrolling text on monitor in booking hall said all tickets must be purchased with national identity documentation. Unused tickets can be returned for a refund within three hours of train departure.

0849 We pulled out a minute ago.

Frankly rather hideous, run-down blocks of flats out in suburbs.

Woke up about 725, before alarm. Thought I heard shower running; not sure I did, was probably a kettle, but hoiked myself up and did indeed hear sounds of water from bathroom. So I had a quick shower, tried and failed to have a shit and left hostel just after 0750. Guy in reception was sleeping so I just left padlock and key on table.

Got to station by about 0820, snapped a couple of photos in Freedom Square metro en route.

Felt pretty shit about all the impending 'stuff to do' when woke up, wished could just stay in bed, but did get up OK and pleased I managed to have a shower and not feeling bad at all just now.

0928 Seeing a few people get up from seats for a bit, wandered up that way questing for a toilet. There is one - the sign on the door appears to be in Russian only - but it is extremely decrepit, no water supply at all or obvious flushing mechanism (even to mechanically open the bottom of the bowl). I just took the advantage of the privacy to re-secrete my hidden belt. Not entirely sure if you are supposed to use it, I have to assume it's OK. The toilet itself is oddly *right* in the corner and sort of angled into the wall, so I think sitting on it would be physically rather awkward. I think having a piss into it would be OK, probably anything more could make me unpopular. ;-)

1001 At a station somewhere. Some chap now sat next to me, which is obviously a tiny shame as everyone loves a double seat to themselves, but not a big deal.

1042 Another station. Bloke next to me got off, saying something in Georgian, but has left his bag. Wondering if this would be a toilet break. But frankly I'm not getting off the train before Zugdidi if I can help it. Was dozing a bit between this station and last. Quite pleasantly warm with sun through window.

Some vendors have got on train offering katchapuri and other stuff I can't catch. Not indulging of course, since I have my own supplies in event of sudden hunger.

1056 Pulling out again. Bloke not come back, maybe the bag under seat isn't his. Meh. No, he's just come back.

1321 Been dozing a lot. Not a problem. I don't have a window seat and even before that bloke sat here the window seat has half a window due to the way seats and windows don't line up. Can see a bit out of other side of train but it's not so stunning I feel I'm missing much. (Assigned seating is evidently the rule here.)

1437 Stopped at a station somewhere. We spend a lot of time stopped, one way or another. Just had a banana and a tin of peanuts; wasn't really that hungry but WTF.

Google Maps says we are just east of Chiatura.

1454 Finally moving off.

1518 Stopped again. Getting rather warm, even now someone has opened a couple of the windows.

I do get the impression there aren't many tourists on this train; I haven't seen anyone who looks like one, or heard anyone speaking English. Not sure what to make of that. Maybe most of them go by bus.

1618 GPS says we are near Khobi (sp). Not sure I trust the earlier fix, not that it matters. I think we are relatively close to Zugdidi now. Checking my earlier blog entry, we are due in 1725 so that seems plausible-ish. Very warm.

1820 At hostel. Finally. I am a bit underwhelmed. Think I am the only guest. Train got in about 1715-1720, I only got here maybe 10 mins ago. Have four bed mixed dorm to myself (with a double bed), in fact I think I may be only guest. The shower, as far as I can tell, is somewhere in the yard; I'm not even going to try and deal with that tonight. The toilet appears to be on the far side of the ten-bed dorm. There might be a vegetarian restaurant a hundred metres away with English speaking staff. The town centre is a considerable further distance; I only had trouble finding the place as it says 'in the city centre' but I was leaving town by the time the street number got halfway down to what I wanted and I thought I must have gone wrong. Took three taxi drivers to find one to bring me here, none of them spoke English. Yes I am in a foreign country etc etc but this is a bit overwhelming after Tbilisi. Gonna chain bag up and go out. At this rate I may not stick the three nights. Let's see anyway. I am here for tonight whatever. Owners seem nice enough and do speak tolerable English at least.