Bangkok-Lop Buri

1017 Well, that all went much better than I expected. At station, with ticket for 1050 train. Got up 0855 after snoozing 10 mins on the 0845 alarm. Packed, checked out, got deposit back and hotel put me in a cab to the station. Given the uncertainty over accommodation etc I decided it wouldn't be prudent to work up a sweat lugging myself and my bag over to Si Lom metro. Wasn't sure if should tip the chap who got me the taxi, but I didn't. I did leave a possibly-stingy-but-I-hate-the-whole-business 100 next to the bed for the room cleaner. Taxi was about 64, made it 70.

Guy at train ticket window wouldn't look me in the eye (so I was never sure if has ignoring me or waiting for me to speak) but spoke good English and got a ticket no problem, THB374.

1043 On train. Air-conditioned seat, as advertised, moderately comfortable if not super plus, not sure what class this is. Got a window seat but no one sat next to me yet. There is a toilet, though I don't know if it's functional. Don't really need to go; I did wander over to the station toilets on the 'go when you can' principle but it said 'toilet 2 Baht, bathroom service 20 Baht' so on the assumption this meant 2 for a slash and 20 for a shit I didn't want to pay. It occurs to me just now that since showers were advertised, it might be 20 to have a shower and 2 for a slash or a shit. Meh. As I say, I didn't need to go, otherwise I'd have paid anyway.

We are due in 1258, this is a relatively fast train.

Station not airconditioned AFAICT but not too hot, and on the platforms there are fans with water mist sprays attached. It's just walking around which induces uncomfortable sweatiness.

1116 Progress seems slow, though I'm not bothered as such - I'm not to half an hour, and we're probably running on time anyway. While stopped at a little station a few minutes ago a small open cart (a bit like the stereotypical Western handcart, but without the pumping bit) went past on the adjacent line with four or so people on. They didn't seem to be dressed like workers, just ordinary people.

Had a small packet of salted peanuts to assuage a certain hunger. I had half a litre of orange juice back at the hotel. I hope I at least have time to eat in Lop Buri if I can't get a room there.

1316 At Lop Buri station.

1401 At hotel, got a room - 500 THB/night, I paid extra for aircon. Got lost on way out of station, of course the GPS didn't work and the map in the guide book suggests to my mind that the exit from the train station is on the east side of the tracks when it is actually the west. I guess I must just be making excuses and the map is actually super clear.

Just said 2 nights, since they don't seem to exist online or read e-mails or answer the phone I don't anticipate any major problem with adding another night if I want to.

Cafe/bar out front a bit intimidatingly full of what at first glance appear to be SYTs but no matter. Wondering if I should have a shower or if that would be insanely overdoing it given I've only walked about in the heat for 45 minutes.

Wifi signal is rather weak out here and my phone is struggling, but the laptop may do better and I can send/receive e-mails from the common areas (I only need to hang around long enough to connect).

Now I'm not there I will say at was at the Furama Silom, 533 Silom Road, in Bangkok.

Looking at the room map in reception, I think only two rooms are airconditioned. Wonder if I over-splurged, but at 500 a night this is hardly breaking the budget anyway. The air conditioner seems a little feeble but it does emit a gentle cool breeze which is better than nothing.

Was pleasantly surprised to be given food on the train - jasmine rice, fried mackerel in chili sauce, shredded chicken soup. Also got given a glass of ice water which I didn't have the wit to refuse, so I ended up with it perched a little precariously on my non-flat pull down table. Also stupidly I did take a sip at it at one point. Meh, it's probably OK anyway.

1816 Back at hotel, been back here maybe half an hour. Had shower and doing a bit of laundry.

Went to Wat Phra Si Rata Mahahat (sp - I can't copy and paste anything from the Kindle app, because I guess it would be a breach of copyright) and Phra Narai Ratcharivet (ditto). Had no idea exactly what I was looking at most of the time, but former especially relatively deserted and quite cool. Saw the museum at the latter, though I only got there about 315-330 and the museums close at 4, so missed a couple of exhibitions (something about classic Thai life and something else). Then walked round a bit, went through the "monkey zone". Was going to go into the three pronged Prang Sam Yot (I think) where they especially congregate but as I was about to pay my 50 to get in the guide bloke said something about not wearing glasses, so I said I'd come back another day with contacts on. There are still a lot of monkeys on the street, it is sort of cool but if they were pigeons or rats it would clearly be considered unnaceptable.

Wandered along the night market which seemed to be setting up but not many people eating. All the signs in Thai only, though some places showed prices in Arabic numerals - seems a bit odd when it doesn't also show names but there you go. Am going to go out now (it's 1854) and see if I can see anywhere I feel safe eating - I need some other tourists visible to make me feel I'm not 'trespassing' for a start - if I can't I will maybe come back to the cafe attached to the hostel, I may come back here for a beer or two afterwards anyway.

1951 At Sahai Pan Ta, which is deserted but does at least have a live band warming up. No free tables at hostel bar/cafe as I left. No free tables at a cafe I'd half spotted earlier near the night market. In sheer desperation I wandered up and down the row of street stalls not having a clue what to eat and eventually got a big chicken steak in batter thing; it was on a stick but they chopped it up for me. I'm sure there's loads more good food I could have had but I had no idea what you would order to go with what even had I no linguistic qualms. Given absence of any free tables at the hostel bar I didn't want to go back there - plus I feel like a desperate loser sitting on my own in hostel bar. Anywhere else it's fine. Don't get me wrong, I wish I could meet people and have a chat, but I can't, so I don't want to sit around and have people patronise me. (Actually, I must say tonight I kind of don't feel in the mood for a chat. Whether this is because I'm in a bad mood about the not being able to get a table anywhere for dinner or because I seem to be developing a cold or something else I couldn't say.)

It's obviously pay as you go here. 140 for a large (well, 630ml) bottle of Singha, I made it 155 with tip and fuck it if it's patronising or not enough or what. Leo was cheaper at 120 but I wondered if the bottle would be smaller. I think if I do have a second here I might have a Leo. Oh, the chicken thing at the night market was only 30. I also didn't see (m)any obvious tourists there, which was a bit disconcerting.

Band (well, a guy with a guitar and a percussionist with some weird dangling xylophone-esque thing and a couple of drums) are playing. Oh no, there's a guy with a keyboard as well. Bit weirdly ethereal but still, interesting in its way. Hope this cold is not going to be a big deal.

Place is huge. I suspect it might get really busy later with it being a Saturday night, but you never know.

2053 Getting another. Slightly busier now. One of band spoke to me from stage earlier, bit embarassing as I didn't always understand his English and it would have been a bit embarassing anyway. Still, sort of nice. While I do regret not having the *option* to just meet people like everyone else seems to, I wouldn't be here listening to this interesting-if-not-quite-my-taste music if I'd just hung around at the thostel.

2118 Band just finished. Am assuming they or someone else might be back later. As advertised in guide book, this place has a wild west theme. Mural of Red Indian (it's so stereotypical I see little value in saying native American), wagon wheels on outside as you come in.

Am a little worried the hostel will lock up and I won't be able to get back in. But since their bar is supposedly one of the main places in town, I might hope it's OK til 1 at least. A new band seems to be setting up now.

2122 Been for slash, leaving bottle on table. Fingers crossed it hasn't been drugged. Have slightly gratifying and also slightly disturbing feeling I am the only tourist in here. (I should say 'non-Thai or similar physical appearance' tourist. I don't see many Western-looking or Chinese-looking tourists. For all I know half the place is having a weekend away from Bangkok, and I have no idea if I could distinguish an average Cambodian from an average Thai or not, to pick an arbitrary nearby nation.)

Oh, saw huge (Mexican size, possibly bigger) cockroach run up a wall off the night market. Not a problem as such - I mean, this *is* tropical and while I am hardly enamoured of the things I'm not phobic about them - but a bit disconcerting. Quite chuffed at not reacting to it much at all at the time. Finding one in my bedroom would be slightly worse prospect, but as long as I don't find any spiders or bedbugs I'll be content.

Had Singha for second beer as easier to stick with same but guide book says Leo is like a weaker version and many travellers prefer it. Cheaper and less likely to get me pissed. Will see if I can manage to order that next time. Difficult but will see what happens.

2137 New band on; 7 piece, rather more rocky (but Thai language; no idea of course if they are doing their own stuff or covers of big local hits).

2205 No one applauds (or shows any other sign) after each song. Cultural difference or tough crowd? Beer supply problems with the language. I lost my beer bottle so I can't just wave it even if I wasn't trying to change to Leo; I spoke to a waiter who didn't understand me saying 'Leo' and just left me alone thereafter.

Place is fairly heaving now, BTW.

Just made new attempt with waiter, showing him Leo written (in the wrong alphabet, naturally) on my phone. See what happens.

I would have thought bringing me the bilingual drink list they showed me when I first arrived would be a logical response to any confusion, but meh. Maybe this is a subtle hint to fuck off, though probably not.

2220 Just went for slash, since had no beer to lose, and lost table. Sat elsewhere now, will see if this triggers any attention from staff. On the one hand tempted to fuck off, on the other hand I am seeing the music free since they aren't serving me.

2224 Miserable looking waitress just came over. Said 'bia singh' from guide book (it doesn't bother giving equivalent for Leo), maybe something will come of it. Yes, got a bottle of Singha. Any pint in a storm...

2255 Getting fourth. The music is quite good if incomprehensible. There is a weird exoticness in being here surrounded by several hundred people without understanding a word of what is going on. It isn't threatening, beyond what's implicit in that alien language stuff. In Latin America I'm sure I'd be eating this up, but then there I'd be 75% of the way to understanding what was going on. It is sort of cool though.

2341 Got fifth. Must be drunk. Since half an hour ago or more neveredning strema of people to and fromg ents. Music contiues, rather entertainingly rhytmitc. Some guys at my table offered me food (declined via polite gesture) and we keep chinking glasses. Music hypnotic. Would love to be Mr Sociable round the hostels but at the same time - assuming I am not locked out tonigh - this is fucking good.

2346 Music - still live - is finally htting western vibe. we have a version of that korean song but mixed up in a recognisable way. seexxxy laaaaady ooooh. i'mm drunk enough to e.njoy it.

2348 Because obviously a korean song is western. not that pissed, eh, racism watchers? but you all know what i mean. first song of the night i recognise.

Song 'Gangnam Style", were it not obvious.

2354 Band off. Party contuines. Linguistic difficulties, drunkeneness and fears about hostle locking door suggest not gonna rush but will head home after this beer.

0017 Back at hostel. Made almost overly formal bows etc at guys sharing table, who were quite nice about implying I should stay out, but didn't. Got lost on way back and asked directions from some people who should have known where this was but didn't help. Still, who needs GPS? I am not completely helpless. All in all a good night.