Chiang Mai, Sunday

0759 Sat in reception. American woman just came in and asked if they had a room, they're full. I suspect there will be rooms elsewhere but no real basis for this.

Naturally didn't get to sleep until 3am or quite possibly more like 4am. Had headache and (also before went to bed) eyes seemed to be 'flaring' slightly. Bit worried was damage from some firework (not due to contact, due to bright light) though noticed nothing while was out. They seem OK this morning though. I still have headache though, although it is better than last night. Woke up without any assistance 0720 and snoozed on 0730 alarm to 0745. Really didn't want to get up but just managed to get down here in time.

Left laptop on overnight to try to upload photos but not a single video made it and it froze on 3 of 9 of the remaining photos. Also just sat there pretending to shut down instead of shutting down, I obviously didn't have time to faff so just held power button down til it shut off. Will have to faff to upload the remaining photos tonight. postr doesn't move the photos aside when done so will have to tediously faff manually to get just the ones not already done. It doesn't do the videos at all, I have to faff with the web-based upload for those. Not one succeeded last night. Maybe if the bandwidth isn't being shared with the photo uploads they will succeed.

Don't feel too tired, main feeling of discomfort is this headache. Not taken a tablet yet, fuck it, will take one now. I may try to go back to bed for an hour or two when we get back about midday if I am still tired, but I probably won't want to and that's probably for the best as although I don't do it often I generally find sleeping like that leaves me feeling completely shit when I wake up.

0912 At some market. Picked up about 815, I was first. Tried to doze on drive up. We are here til 945. Can't see the attraction, especially when we apparently only get 1h at Doi Suthep, but meh. Vaguely tempted to eat something but not actually hungry (I did eat a lot last night) and I will have lunch when get back. There are toilets here for THB5 but I don't actually want to go yet, no doubt the urge will come on at the most inappropriate moment possible.

0934 Bought some dried longan, whatever that is, at the not-so-amazingly-bargainous price of 100 for a fairly large bag. Eaten about half. Not exactly hungry but figured it was a chance to get some fruit down me. Quite nice. I just hope it doesn't turn out to be prized for its laxative effects or something like that.

Up towards 'top' of market (it's hilly here) there was a bit where you could pay 10 to go in and see flowers (including opium flowers, presumably this is a way to make poppies sound more exciting) and the Doi Pui waterfall (thing this is Doi Pui market). Slightly tempted but being a bit short on time and also it not being wet season and never having heard of this before decide not to try it.

1244 Back at hotel. Will waffle later, for now will note we passed zoo and it was nearly 30 mins driving (no stops at hotels) from there to Tae Pae (sp) gate, ie it's effectively miles away given the traffic.

1259 At small low-key restaurant in street parallel to hotel. Think I am having a beef biryani, but not certain. Some places evidently don't open for lunch and although I could doubtless have gone somewhere towards TP gate I saw this place and thought what the hell.

Doi Suthep was OK, I'm glad I went, but I wasn't wowed. The temple is nice as these things go, I quite liked the lower terrace and I rang a few of the bells and the view over Chiang Mai is good but I wasn't stunned - maybe because it was a bit misty/cloudy and sky overcast.

Food here, looks OK if not huge portion, think the drink is just on the 'bottle of water from table into provided glass with ice', as I say this is low key sort of place.

1323 65, made it 75 with tip, waitress brought me some change back, trust haven't inadvertently caused offence. Food pretty good, also got small bowl of a clearish soup. Place is Koi Soy Fueng Fah.

1443 At Lila Thai Massage Ratchadaemon. Bit worried (primarily from a theft perspective, but have gone for neck-back-shoulder massage so I hope I can keep my lower half clothes on, and if they do make me change I can keep my hidden belt on). Was going to go to place right next to hotel but despite saying open door was locked. Tried the Lila Thai Massage Tae Pae gate as next reasonable looking option I saw, but they were only doing foot massage today. Came here and loads of people in reception and big queue to arrange appointment, I thought it would be tomorrow but as it's just me they said if I wait half an hour they can do me today. It's suppose to be 1h.

I have to assume this is fairly pukka given the volume of custom. Also, saw from leaflet at first branch that this is basically staffed by ex-convicts who do a training course in prison. To me, that at least adds confidence the staff have been trained, whereas while it's probably not the case, one of these random little places (apart from slim concerns about more-than-massage services) the staff might be completely untrained. (My theft comment earlier had nothing to do with the ex-convict business; it's just the idea of possibly being forced to leave my passport somewhere is not very appealing. There is no safe in my hotel room, I could and perhaps should have left it at front desk but somehow that seems not so secure, it goes out of my sight just the same and what if the staff turn round and say it's gone when I try to collect it?)

They're turning people away at the door now unless they want to make a booking for tomorrow. Maybe because it was a biggish group.

1611 Out. Somewhat unsure if I enjoyed that or not. I may try it again tomorrow or Tuesday, but definitely not booking anything now in case I wake up in agony tomorrow morning...

Sun has come out while I was in there, which was strangely disconcerting.

1657 Just paid 583 for an overnight bus to Bangkok on Tuesday. Came over to the in-town Green Bus office as recommended by guide book; it isn't really where the guide  book says, it's down a side street but I found it by chance after I'd given up. Leaves 1900, gets in 0515. 40 seats on bus, maybe 5-10 taken. I picked an aisle seat. Did see one company offering a 'sleeper' service for 1080-ish on way over here; in a way that might have been nice, but given horror stories in guide book about some tourist buses (sleeping gas so they can rifle through your stuff) I wanted to stick with a reputable company. And this saves money as well, I guess. Chap spoke pretty good English.

Bought some of that grapefruit/pomelo segment stuff in street (turned into pedestrian only market) leading up to Wat Phra Singh on way over to buy ticket, also had bottle of green tea and an almond Magnum. Will probably head back to hotel now, just possibly will dine on way back if I see something super-tempting. Then do that much-needed laundry, come out around 7-8 to see Loy Krathong stuff (there might be a parade, frankly I generally find those things a touch tedious so unless fate throws it in my way I am not worrying about it) and then go get food (possibly, not necessarily if eat on way back now) and beer (definitely).

1703 Been stood outside writing above, ticket office chap just came out to tell me to be there 30 mins early. Oh, he gave me a little slip of paper (which has the time of the bus written in by hand, slightly oddly) to show to taxi driver to tell him where to go. I did ask and I think it is the Arcade bus terminal where I came in, but I will almost certainly get a tuktuk or taxi there anyway, even tho signs seen near Tae Pae gate suggest it costs 150 for a tuktuk, which seems a bit insane given the price of the trip all the way to Bangkok.

Oh, I asked and he said there is a toilet on the bus. :-) Probably for no. 1 only, but still a comfort.

1807 Back at hotel. Walked back through street market, quite cool if a bit slow. Bought some grilled rice cake things and a corn on the cob at a street stall; I think the touristy nature of the place helps remove my inhibitions. They were quite nice. That fruit stuff *is* pomelo, I saw another stall selling it and they had labelled it.

Got some fruit juice and water and another bottle of green tea from 7-Eleven on way back. Laundry time.

2100 OK, bit later than planned but no later than went out first night after Spanish lesson. Deliberately not taking camera. Not intending to launch another krathong, insofar as doing so was special/memorable, it seems silly to dilute that by doing it two nights in a row. Also, what if this one doesn't stay lit and ruins my good luck from last night? ;-)

2128 Traffic crazy on road near hotel. Not crossed bridge, come into little park on corner. Pretty cool, loads of fire balloons, loads of people launching them here. One just came down on fire in the middle of a group of people but they saw it coming just in time and no one was hurt. Loads are getting stuck in trees, apart from defoliation in extreme cases it seems to do no major harm to the tree. Clearly my family over-panicked about the possibility of setting fire to the big tree in our garden the other Christmas.

2136 Another one (not on fire, except where it was meant to be) came down near me just now. Someone caught it and then a policewoman came over with a stick and captured it and stamped it out. Anyway, going to put my eyes back on the sky!

2222 At Inter Bar just outside Tae Pae gate. Large Leo (630ml) for 120. Threw caution to wind and had a mushroom and bacon thing, some battered chicken nuggets and a pork sausage from street stalls (20, 20, 10) as walked slowly along from park to here. Fingers crossed. Live rock here, OK. Paid for beer when got it, that's obviously how it works. Perhaps cos I am sat virtually on the street. Anyway, free to leave if want but probably won't until I go home.

Beers mats are in English, labelled 'Lewisham' and against drink-driving...

2240 "Are you gonna be my girl?" (by Jet?). Takes me back to the St Moritz. Ah, the past! Not a bad cover if not astounding. I am a bit surprised, I didn't realise the song was that international a hit.

2252 Second beer.

2303 Band stopped. May or may not be end. Not having bad night but in today's alcohol-limited world perhaps shouldn't have a third. I probably will, though.

2305 Lead singer sat chatting to presumably Thai guys at next table. Much less close up, but on stage he somehow gave me a vaguely William Shatner-era Star Trek Klingon vibe.

2311 Free wifi here but the password is on the wall opposite at head height (dumb, why not higher?) and some fucking woman is sat with her head obscuring most of it. Not a huge deal but annoying.

2318 A band coming on, not sure it is the same one.

2322 Very un-rock. Not quite sure how to describe it. Sort of vaguely calypso rock instrumental. Dunno if this is their whole schtick.

2325 What I think is Apache (Shadows?) now. I wonder if they have a singer or this is filling in while he's away or what. Seems a competent cover of the tune anyway.

2327 Tempted to third (on last glass of this) but bit worried will lose table. However, since guys next to me took other stool the fact it's a solo table plays in my favour. Looks like seats at bar in a pinch.

2333 Do have a singer, doing passable cover of RHCP song now (not a huge fan). Went for slash, leaving glass on table, and retained it. Will have another, then prob go home unless is really great.

0010 Not bad cover of Wish You Were Here (Pink Floyd). Probably will have a fourth, bite me.

0017 Another Brick In The Wall (part 2). Score.

0022 Slight difficulty getting attention to order fourth. Paid with 1k note, twill be OK. no doubt band will go off now. But I figure if there's any night the 1am closing time will be (probably legally) breached it's tonight.

0024 Seemed to expect a tip, gave her 60. "I know I won't be leaving here with you" (not the title, i know). Good boozy night. Toursity too but wtf.

Slight thinning of custom but still fairly busy. (It's Franz Ferdinand cover, of course.)

0029 Green Day, "When I Come Around".

I'm pretty alert for a man who had 3h sleep last night!

0143 Interesting. Met very nice 50something but looks my age English chap called Jerry (a builder), may meet him tomorrow night. Anyway, should go home. Lights came on 15 mins ago so night definitely over.

0159 Back at hotel. So I guess that shows TP gate is max 15 mins from hotel.

0254 Been talking to Mum. Maybe not best idea drunk, meh. Bed.