Delhi, Thursday

1253 Just getting ready to go out. Bit slack but sod it. Woken  by hotel phone ringing 630ish, no one there when answered. Drowsed fitfully on alarm til maybe 12ish. Had some bananas and bourbons by way of breakfast, now need to go out and withdraw cash and then over to station to buy ticket Agra-Jaipur.

1352 At tourist booking office at stn. Break from 1400-1415 but not a big deal. I am no 245, they are serving 233 now. Much less busy that yesterday (later today of course)

One chap chasing another down street as I emerged from hotel. I assume a snatch-and-grab sort of robbery. Gave me a bit of a shake I must say. I was intending to walk to the station with my bag tomorrow and I may still do it, but not quite so sure. If I do walk with it I need my most exposed pockets empty of valuables anyway, since I won't be able to keep hands in pockets.

It is amazing how much less maneouvrable (sp) I am with my hands in my pockets. I suppose it's logical in a way, but it does periodically surprise me.

No touts on way over.

1434 Got ticket, tho guy called my number too early so end up stood there while he served other person. Only 425 for ticket, odd as this is further and probably faster than the Delhi-Agra ticket. Meh.

1600 At Kalkaji Mandir metro, returning into town after seeing the Lotus Temple. It is very elegant, the grounds are attractive and while I wasn't allowed in (guide book doesn't say you can or can't go in, but when I took my shoes off and hovered near a pile of shoe bags wondering if I should wait to be 'served' so I could tip, the chap said something in incomprehensible English but which I inferred to be something about 'only the devout' - I don't think a service was on, hordes of other people were going in) they didn't even give me the opportunity to leave a donation.

Metro v rammed from New Delhi to Central Secretariat, I expected better mid-afternoon. Still, it was OK and beats being taken up the arse by a tuktuk driver any time. I had about 14 of my original 50 credit left but have topped up another 100 just in case. Will be here a day or two at end of trip if not before.

Pushing and shoving to get on is pretty fierce, doesn't help when I have a hand in pocket all the time. Seems a little extreme actually. Also people shove past through the metal detectors in what seems very rude way, but still.

Train here.

1651 At Kwality. Bite me. Emerged at Rajiv Chowk in middle of Connaught Circus, thought would semi-experimentally wander but favoured this way. Heaving. Moderately touted up. Fobbed off a tuktuk driver, a shoe cleaning cunt dropped some shit on my shoe but I didn't let him clean it off, then a chatty chap latched onto me as I crossed road heading over here. Fortunately managed to wipe most of shit off on some grass between the two and popped up to bog to do what I could with the rest here. Some chap hanging around in bog but never actually did anything beyond gesture at the hand towel dispenser, so I didn't give him any money. He wasn't there yesterday. Fear there is a slight stink of shit from remains (I had to clean it off in toilet cubicle cos bloke was there) but probably largely imagination. Will be OK once it dries. If I were wearing slip-ons this would be less annoying as the front top would be smoother and more easily wipeable, still, what can you do? He did pick just about the worst possible time to do it, since any other time I'd be either outdoors or back at hotel. Obviously wasn't going to pay that cunt to remove it and perhaps get pickpocketed into the bargain.

Anyway, what with that and the chatty chap there was no way I was going to wander to find somewhere different to eat. I will return via Patel Chowk metro to south as yesterday and go up to New Delhi station.

Didn't see the chap dump the shit on my shoe, though to be fair I was concentrating on keeping walking and not looking down.

1734 Coffee. They obviously remember me. It's starting to get dark, which isn't a problem but I am somehow surprised it is getting dark so early. Rogan josh was OK though meat was on the bone and rather fatty with it. Still think I can smell a bit of shit intermittently, but not much can do about it. Not too strong and hope not too noticeable away from me.

1755 930 with the usual '20% discount' ??, made it 1100. Off. Fingers crossed I don't stink out metro, tho think tis better than was and not that bad.

1857 Back at hotel, via Reliance Fresh for food/snacks/water so no need to go out again. All staff greeted me as I came into hotel with armfuls of food. Need to check out in plenty of time tomorrow in case they argue (eg say I haven't already paid), and still not sure what to do about tip. (Didn't hand key in at reception when left today in case asking for room cleaning service increased my obligations, so the tip from other morning is still naturally sat on table.) Need to book hotel in Jaipur tonight, but going to bum around for an hour or so first.

2128 Wifi seems to have gone on the blink. Have however booked a hotel for Jaipur; went for three nights, i.e. two full days, on grounds I can always move hotel if necessary if I want to stay longer and can't or choose not to extend at first one.

Would like to get e-mail saying I paid upfront for this place onto phone but have to wait for wifi to come back. Have precached Agra map on phone and have hotel location on there if GPS works.

Am a bit dithery/worried about tipping as I leave tomorrow. Don't want to be compelled to hand over five quid at desk on top of the five quid I'm leaving in the room and maybe a quid to the chap on the door. FFS, it's not like I've had stellar service, I don't normally expect to tip heavily just for staying in a hotel. IIRC the three nights cost about 42 quid, so a fiver is already over 10% more. I haven't even had any breakfast despite it being included, nor (inferring this is how it works from other mentions in guide book) have I had them lug any  buckets of hot water up for me. FFS2, they've only cleaned the room once over my four night stay (because I don't like to leave the key with reception, as mentioned before) and the dirty footprints I somehow ended up with all over the bathroom floor the first night didn't get cleaned up then anyway.

0236 Been in bed for at least two hours. Can't sleep for no obvious reason. Sigh. Guess it doesn't really matter.