Delhi-Agra

1113 On train, which is a relief. Corridor v narrow and people with loads of luggage.

1121 Swapped seats with chap separated from his family group. No skin off my nose. Rationally the people on here some normal and decent, despite my irrational fears the thing would be a tout-ridden hellhole.

Hotel called me at 8am, unasked, to remind me about checkout. I said 'but it's 12 isn't it?' and they hung up. Sigh. Didn't get to sleep til maybe 3 anyway. Didn't want to get up, anticipating problems checking out or getting safely to station or getting on train. It was fine, they made me wait in reception while they checked the room but no problem. Didn't tip except for the 500 left in room. No touts on way to station except one chap who latched on to me on station forecourt - the bag must attract them - but I pressed on platformwards and he left me alone. No one stole bag as it went through the security scanner. I stood on the platform and was generally ignored; one chap offered to clean my shoes and I was as cautious as I could be in case he threw shit on them - would be awkward to be stuck on train smelling of shit and might be forced to have let him clean them. Chap squatting next to me on platform did show me his ticket and say something I didn't understand, maybe in Hindi, but he left me alone after that.

We are pulling out dead on time. Only problem is cos we're sat on sleeping berts, the benches are really deep and so you can't support your back up against the wall because your upper legs aren't long enough (it's not just me, you'd need about a foot of extra height *in the upper leg*). No one is talking to me and that suits me fine, but if anyone does the people seem like normal families so no problem.

1326 Back is hurting. Only an hour to go. Worried about fucking transport to hotel but nothing I can do about it. I was at Sita International, 3/10 DB Gupta.

1327 Ah, some chap sat opposite just pointed the 'bed' lifts up to form a seat back. The chap sat next to me didn't seem to know either, and in fact most people don't seem to have bothered. Much more comfortable though.

1413 We've been sat in middle of nowhere for ages. We are due in in 12 minutes. In a way it's OK, but for no apparent reason the hotel says to let them know if you will be arriving after 4pm, and if there's a delay plus the expected cuntery on the ...

1452 Chap next to me is talking to me, I have his card, he's a manager at some flooring company. Nice chap. He reckons we will be an hour late into Agra. Fingers xed on the transport. He has popped off so writing this.

1558 OK, at hotel. Toutish chappy collared me at station but he showed me a printed (possibly fake) tarrif and charged me 200 for taxi to Taj, which was also printed on another building outside. Anyway, I figured for peace of mind that was worth it. I made it 300 which is a bit insane but if it's my choice I don't mind, plus I had my bag. Cars aren't allowed near Taj (or tuktuks, possibly) so he put me in a cycle rickshaw to hotel. Taxi driver said it would be 10, guy quoted me 50 and I gave him 100. Meh, it's not at the level of that guy doubling his price two minutes into the journey and when I have my bag I feel more paranoid. Both of them would obviously have liked to take me to a different hotel but I said I'd paid for this in advance. (I hadn't, but in theory they could bill me for the whole stay if I didn't show up, not that I saw any reason to take a chance on some random hotel anyway.)

Wifi appears to work. Guy at desk helpful if slightly pushy outlining a programme for me, so I need to be up 6am-ish to be there for sunrise, then he recommends a specific tuktuk driver for the afternoon to do some other sights. I am OK with that, if the guy can be trusted. Anyway, I need to go out and get cash (I was only allowed to withdraw 10k INR at last machine went to) and also scout out the route to the west gate (hotel near south gate, but it doesn't open til 8am) ready for tomorrow. I may have to fend off cycle rickshaw drivers but let's see how it goes.