Delhi, Wednesday

1045 Just got up. Usual story, woke feeling OKish 730ish then went back to sleep and felt a bit crap on the alarms and snoozed. Dreading going down to reception to ask for my passport, they just seem to lax about the whole business. Not looking forward to going to the station either. Anyway, let's have some food before facing all that.

1137 In international tourist bureau at New Delhi station. Accidentally took two tickets at machine, so I am nos 199 and 200. Currently serving 138ish. Got passport back on and came over with it and phone and cash zipped inside inside jacket pocket and with jacket zipped up. Bit warm but not too bad and better safe than sorry. Actually nowhere near as bad as I expected, I didn't get approached by a single tout anywhere between here and the hotel.

It's busy in here but not mad, there are free seats. Most people look Indian, I would assume they are non-resident Indians given the signs on the way in. I can see exactly one white guy, who is sat wearing a silly hat with his mouth open gormlessly.

1151 Lots of people seem to be filling in or clutching reservation forms, but I see no obvious source of them. Incidentally there is no announcement or beep when the numbers over the counters change, so the chances of missing my slot seem high. I guess I am in no huge rush, I can afford to wait through several rounds of ticket-then-service.

1200 OK, saw someone extract forms from box on shelf opposite side of a pillar to my seat. Have filled it in. Only serving 160 now. Of course I am likely to have to come back here tomorrow to book a ticket on from Agra since I can't assume it is safe to leave it until I get there, but I can't do it now since I don't know where I want to go or what trains there are. Not the end of the world, especially since with luck I won't be so intimidated at coming here tomorrow. I could imagine doing Agra-Jaipur if that if possible, or maybe Agra-Amritsar, but I want a direct train if I can. Something to look at tonight or maybe when I get back to hotel after leaving here, I could come back today. The only other 'must see' in town I can remember is the Red Fort and there's no huge rush, if nothing else I can see that when I am back in Delhi before flying out. I might do that this afternoon and come here again tomorrow morning. Anyway, let's see how this goes first.

1245 Up to 193. I'm going to have to stop reading soon and start staring at screen. Bit hot in here, jacket doubtless not helping, but what can you do? Bit of a headache and it sounds as if there's a cicada in here somewhere, though I presume it's really machinery.

1253 Done. 710. The guy had no change for a 500, fortunately I had change. He said 'thank you very much sir' as I pulled out change, I hope this wasn't an invitation to tip, I would help felt awkward as fuck. Anyway. Back to hotel to take jacket off and maybe shower and stuff.

1316 In hotel. Of course they wanted to clean my room the instant I got back not while been out. Told them to give me 5 mins. Have shuffled stuff around and hidden passport and going to have quick look at guide book and chance my arm at Red Fort via mini-supermarket (for a bottle of cold drink and change for a 500) and a tuktuk in the street.

1518 At Red Fort. Sat under a tree with chipmunks (not striped like the ones my parents used to breed, differently striped) scampering about. Hacked off. I am developing a prejudice against Indians, I fear. I am sick of being chiselled and manipulated. I'm going to start arguing instead of meekly taking it like a proper tourist soon.

Got tuktuk to Red Fort. Guy quoted me 200, I said OK. Two minutes later we are in a traffic jam and he says 400. Bit confusedly I say OK, I'll get out here and start to climb out. I also hand him the 200 at that point. Anyway, somehow I didn't get out and we carry on. Later he pulls up in busy street and says it's round the corner. I say OK, I'll walk. I get out. He says he wants 400. I say I already paid him 200. He says 400. I point out the meter reads about 38, so 200 is generous, and he said 200, and he leaves it. FFS. What a cunt though. Yes quote me the stupid tourist price if you like, I can turn it down if I like. But don't fucking try to double your price once I've got in.

Anyway I walked down some street towards a red building which turned out to be the adjacent mosque. 300 to take a camera in, fair enough. Some Indian guys wanted to take their photo with me in courtyard but that seemed not to be a scam. I then paid 100 to go up the tower. Or did I? I got escorted all the way by some chap, so it was super rushed. He took me up the tower and some people wanted photos with me and he took some of me. The guy at the bottom of the tower (I'd been carrying my shoes since I went in, but had to leave them at bottom of tower) then charged me 50 to have looked after them. Then the guy who'd escorted me demanded a tip. I unluckily had a 500 note loose in that pocket and pulled that out first. I handed over 100 and he said 200. I said I'd already paid 100 to go up and he said 200. I felt a bit vulnerable (we were still on the raised access to the tower bit, not back in the courtyard) so I said 'OK, you've got me over a barrel' and gave him 200. Prudently refrained from calling him a cunt.

Then walked through market over here. Managing to be relatively tout resistant in general. As I get to the fort, a lovely gap appears in the traffic and loads of people start to cross, but a tuktuk driver waves me back telling me to be careful. The body language of the situation was that he was saving me from stepping under a car I hadn't seen. This allows him to trap me on the central reservation for a sales pitch. He had some business cards of Western diplomat types and some UK numbers in his phone. Wow. To be fair he seemed a nice enough chap, and I hope he isn't waiting by the exit when I leave.

I then eventually found the ticket office. It's 250 for foreigners (10 for Indians - but I can accept this kind of dual pricing). Since all the robbing cunts had depleted my supply of change I paid with a 500 and the fucker behind the counter gave me 200 change. I realised immediately but at this point I am just expecting to be ripped off left right and centre. Five seconds later I found myself wishing I'd argued with the bastard. It's only 50p but you don't fucking just shortchange me. (Hell, I wouldn't put up with someone doing the same thing to me for the same amount back home, would I? I hand over a fiver for a 2.50 coffee and they just give me two quid change - no way!) I might be a tourist but I'm not fucking stupid, mate.

Obviously I am a bit vulnerable so it's difficult but it's getting to the point where I've just about had enough. Being poor doesn't entitle you to con me. You can openly overcharge and if I want to pay anyway, that's your prerogative. But no more fucking cons or telling me my 100% tip isn't big enough, unless I feel seriously threatened.

I should obviously be sightseeing instead of writing this but wanted to get it out cos I am not happy and figured this might help.

Oh, as I came out they asked if I wanted my room cleaned, and it turned out I had to leave the key with them, so presumably that's why they didn't clean it yesterday. Slightly odd but still. My cynicism is suggesting that's so you feel more like you're asking them to do you a favour by cleaning your room instead of it just happening, hence more tips, but that's probably overdoing it.

It's 1532.

1753 At Kwality. Taar gosth with peas pulao rice, butter naan and a bottle of black label which is going down far too well. Got metro back from Chatra Chowk (sp - can't see map as write this) after red fort to Patel Chowk which is walking distance of here. Bit of language difficulties and I seem to have paid 100 deposit for smartcard despite a big ad saying it's now 50 but sod it. Bit rammed but it is probably peak hour. Clean and the journey cost me something like 10-15. May walk back down there and get metro up to New Delhi stn after.

Tempted by cheaper option of Eagle Boys Pizza down the road (value meal is like 250, so call it 500 with gorging myself and tip; this will be 1000) but sod it, the food is good and it is at least local-ish style and they have beer. Unless mega tempted not intending to go out for a beer tonight, will have quiet night in. No point forcing it and if I don't feel comfortable wheres the enjoyment? I am sure a natural circumstance when it feels 'right' to go out and have a few beers one night will come up sooner or later.

Not had anything to drink since 250ml of mango pulp thing bought at Reliance Fresh before going to red fort. Just may have a second beer here, bit heavy on the alcohol consumption but sod it, let's see anyway. I am only customer in here right now.

Waiter presented bottle of black label to me before opening it, just as I imagine he would had I ordered an expensive wine.

1824 Was v good. Always wonder if I'm being super uncouth soaking up the sauce with my naan but fuck it. The beer did hit the spot, I might pop out tonight after all, anyway, let's see. For now I am not having a second beer by way of allowing some leeway, just getting a coffee as I suspect I can't get change anyway so on yesterday's experience might as well make the bill up a little nearer to 1k.

TV is showing news. It says 'Headlines' and the name of the sponsor (Dunar Basmati Rice) solely in English, then all the headlines scroll underneath in Hindi. Bizarre.

1832 There's something that always strike me as madly decadent about coffee with cream.

1849 Bill 903, made it 1100. Off, fingers crossed with the metro and coming out at New Delhi.

1938 Back at hotel. Picked key up, guy at desk was all 'is everything OK with the room, let us know if there is a problemm. Come back, they have indeed cleaned but left tip alone, fuck knows, will just leave it there.

No major problems coming back via metro - either I'm getting better or more likely it's only certain roads that are majorly tout infested - but naturally (unless I just took wrong exit) the metro comes out on the Asomething Gate side of the frankly gigantic station and the signage is a little poor. However I kept my hands in my pockets and with that precaution felt safe, it's so busy I couldn't imagine a violent crime. Memories of this morning and mention of two gates on the guide book led me to cross the (heaving, long) bridge across the platforms and indeed there were signs to the Pahar Ganj side. Once out of the station it was just the usual schlep down DB Gupta and I got a bit lucky with the traffic and perhaps I'm getting more accustomed to it. Still a bit of a hike from the station but still. I think in future heading out via New Delhi metro has to be the way to go, fuck the tuktuk drivers.

Quite a few people in Red Fort gardens wanted their pictures taken with me. I kept my hands in my pockets in case this is a pickpocketing scam, but maybe it's genuine. I do wonder *why* though. While I was surprised at the huge Indian:obvious foreign tourist ratio (maybe 5% obvious foreign tourists) inside the Red Fort, it's hardly as if Westerners are a genuine rarity here. Maybe they think I'm Woody Allen or something.

Torn about going out later, may well do, anyway let's faff around a little bit for now and maybe pop out to shops for change later, no need to go out to bar for at least an hour.

2027 I have booked a hotel near the Taj Mahal in Agra for Fri through Sun nights. Taj is closed on Friday, so that's quite good from my perspective - no pressure Fri then can visit it Sat and/or Sun. There is some shit about making a bank transfer to the hotel for a deposit which is probably going to incur enormous fees and/or hassle but let's see what happens.

2052 OK, back at hotel with groceries. I am seriously tempted to go out for a couple of beers but am manfully resisting. I suspect I will be able to have a nice meal and a beer or two at the rooftop restaurant at the hotel in Agra overlooking the Taj Mahal (with much less staggering distance too ;-) ), much better to wait that go have a couple of stressed-out shitty beers in the bar down the road here with DB Gupta to cross afterwards. I am tempted as I say but I do also need to look into my onward journey from Agra so I can buy a train ticket tomorrow and this will give me a chance to upload some more photos.

2219 Internet connection at hotel so slow I can't get any photos uploaded. Meh. Also noticed I left the camera set to Singapore time zone until now, so photos taken in Delhi before now have wrong time zone. Oh well, not a big deal.

2338 Poking at Agra-Jaipur trains on the web site of Indian Railways, except on Friday (no good to me) when there is a train leaving 1030(am), they all leave at arse o'clock in the morning or late afternoon/evening and hence get in well after dark.

If I feel I can risk arriving in Jaipur late-ish, the best given my dislike for getting up early (and remember I have to fight with tuktuk drivers or whatever to get to the station) is probably the non-Thursday (no problem) train 12036 AF-JP Shatabdi Exp which leaves Agra Fort at 1620 and arrives 1950 (i.e. 3h 30m, which is super fast; next best is 4h5m, then 4h25).

A quick look on booking.com suggests there is plenty of availability in Jaipur from Monday, so I could go and book that train. I am wondering if I should stay in Agra an extra night, but probably not necessary. Basic plan is to do the Taj Mahal early one morning and mid afternoon the other full day, then do Agra Fort the afternoon I do the Taj in the morning. It might be best to do the morning session the second full day, since I can then scope out the entrances without time pressure the first day. If for some reason I want more time there I can go back later in the trip, at this rate I will have 'done' three of the four semi-planned places (Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, but not Amritsar) within the first week and a half. I would also like to go to Bwhatsit to see the rat temple (if only by way of homage to Crazy Noel ;-) ), but that's out past Jaipur so can come later. So if I really really want more time in Agra I can squeeze that in later, and it's nearish to Delhi so could be done a few days before I fly home from Delhi.

In a way it's a shame to be booking trains up in advance and commiting myself, but I understand it's necessary if you want to be sure. Also, I have no huge plans for tomorrow and the railway station is easy to walk to. Even ignoring the risk of not getting a seat, I don't have much free time in Agra to schlep over to the train station to buy an onward ticket, plus it would probably require tuktuks to and from the station which adds to the cost and hassle.

0023 Done quick spot of laundry. Should be moving towards bed but not mega tired and even if you believe the 8h thing I don't need to be up before about 10 and on that basis 2am would be fine. I need to withdraw some cash tomorrow morning, it is scary how quick that first 10k rupees/100 quid seems to have gone, especially given I had paid for this hotel up front and it didn't come out of that money. Obviously a small amount is still stashed away for emergencies but still. I am not going to sift through what's happened to see where it went, although I suspect tuktuk drivers account for a fair proportion of it. With the possible exception (and it's hardly an insane decadence) of the two ten/eleven quid meals at Kwality, I don't feel I've been living particularly extravagantly.

0242 FFS, need to go to bed.