Saturday 27 March 2010

Easter Island, part 4

Fri, 12:55am. It occurs to me (post-shower) that if the body of the hotel in which my room is located is accessible round that corner, were I merely to take my key out with me, any inconvenience on anyone else's part could be dispensed with, assuming they keep the lights on outside all night anyway. The thought vaguely tempts me to the path of honesty with regard to speaking to reception tomorrow, well, today.

I may as well say at this point that the rooms are in some buildings around a swimming pool, which I doubt is in regular use, although who knows. Maybe in high season. All very elegant I'm sure. I could pay half the money and do without a pool I wouldn't dare to ask about using even if I could swim, though.

Fri 1pm. Got up stupidly late again. No big deal. I am having breakfast/lunch at the restuarant I went to last night. I think most of the tour offices will be shut for lunch til 3pm anyway. I will wander up that way after I've eaten and if they are I hope I will be able to fill in time at an internet cafe booking accommodation in Santiago/Buenos Aires.

I may try the second half of that walk I stumbled on yesterday afterwards, time and weather permitting, although glacing at a map in one of my guide books earlier I suspect it's further than you'd think. On the other hand, the board advertising the walk said 2.5h, not particularly difficult. Time permitting we shall see.

I vaguely plan to be demanding with the tour company and see what they can sort me out with to make the use of the three full days I have left after today. I suspect this won't happen though.

Feeling much better today.

Fri 2:20pm. Went into Kia-Koe tours, partly because they were open and partly because the shoestring guide recommends them. Have paid CLP50,000 for a half day tour this afternoon, full day tomorrow and half day Sunday morning. I opted out of paying USD18 (I wish people would stop quoting me prices in dollars, I am not American, I don't have a good feel for dollar value, I don't have any dollars but I do have, shock horror, the LOCAL CURRENCY) for a box lunch on the full day tour as my Bradt guide says it's a rip off. I will have to buy something tonight.

The woman in there seemed slightly unhelpful but maybe I imagined it. She kept not understanding my English intermittently and I resorted to very bad Spanish. It was all just a bit awkward. (I started in Spanish but she obviously noticed I was not a native speaker and switched to English.)

Had to come and buy a diet coke I don't want (2200 with tip, fucking hell, that's nearly THREE QUID for a can of coke) just so I can use a bog. I should have gone at the restaurant but I couldn't find it and the probably-staff glared at me so much I didn't like to ask. Fuckers. I would have asked but it's practically impossible to tell who's staff and who isn't in these places.

Tour this afternoon is at 3pm. I am being picked up at the hotel at 9:40am tomorrow and Sunday but today I said I'd rather go to their office as it wasn't worth the hassle of going back to the hotel.

I worry a bit I have over-booked myself but fuck it, at least this way I don't waste this afternoon and I am free Sunday afternoon and Monday to do 'something else'. I had to do the tours I guess really and while I could have shopped round how would I really be able to judge good v bad? At least this company has been recommended in one of my guide books.

Fri 8pm. Tour finished about six, bought some very basic snacks (biscuits and a couple of apples, and two bottles of water) from a frankly depressing and desolate supermarket and lugged them back to the hotel. Was going to book accommodation while in town but since two internet cafes I could see were both full and I hate waiting I figured I'd leave it.

Come into town for something to eat and a few beers. The receptionist said they shut at 10pm but offered to leave the key on the windowsill again, I asked if I could bring it out with me and I have, it seemed safer.

Was vaguely planning to try ceviche (not for the first time) but I can't find anywhere I can bring myself to order it. Some places just look too pretentious, I sat outside another place for a few minutes without attracting any attention. Back at the place I ate here my first morning (Tavake). They do ceviche here but it's more expensive than beef or chicken, which somehow seems off. Plus - despite what that woman I met in Santiago the other Saturday told me - I bet it comes with some sort of foul sauce or mayonnaise. I may ask the waiter, if he ever comes over. At least I have seen a waiter here.

I don't plan to be out super late and according to the price list outside the beer here is CLP1500 a can, so I may see how long I can stick on here after eating instead of going back to Marou (last night's bar). It was pricey there and not particularly and I don't want to go back too often.

I think the ceviche can fuck off. I just can't be bothered to look like an idiot asking and there will doubtless be some one ingredient whose name I don't recognise and therefore have to assume indicates something foul. I may compromise on fish with rice, depending on how the fish is cooked. I can handle asking that.

I should maybe ask about the ceviche but (maybe it's just in my head) there's something about this place (I mean the island, not this particular restaurant) that doesn't feel friendly. I think I'd ask in a 'normal' restaurant in a city, but at these kind of little places I don't get the right feeling. You might naively expect they'd be more helpful, but I get/imagine this 'fuck you, take it or leave it' sort of feeling. I suspect I am imagining this but who knows.

The tour was fairly good, if a bit short, and the guide fairly informative. We went to some place where the top part of the statues was quarried out, then to some place where there are 7 statues facing out to sea (which none of the others do apparently, I assume there is a way to tell which way a toppled statue was facing when they reconstruct stuff), then to some sort of cave, apparently the biggest on the island. There were a few too many cobwebs around in the cave for my taste, but it was OK in the end, I didn't see anything. I took photos of all the signs so in theory those would give the proper local and hence not very memorable names of the places I went.

Fri, 9pm. Not a bad meal anyway. Some sort of fish steak although I will not venture to try and identify it. Not an enormous portion but I was not particularly hungry.

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