Saturday 13 March 2010

Pulling it back together

OK. It's six quid, it's no big deal, it's just the principle. The woman in the restaurant was very pleasant, although I still think it was deliberate. There was the ten quid for the cloth thing earlier but at least I got something for my money. I fully expect the insect repellent to leak onto the cloth somehow while it's in my suitcase and destroy it though.

I think the sheer feel of being rushed all the time is not helping. Yesterday I was on a tour within about two hours of arriving, had an early start today, got back about 5pm today, had to rush to book the hostel online (you can't book same-day on hostelworld.com apparently, even if I would have had time tomorrow)

Down at Kamizaraky Rock Pub,the best bar in Southern Peru according to the guide if memory serves, and the only one it lists here. It's OK, I can imagine it being fun under better circumstances (my early departure crimps things even if my mood improves). 8 sols for 620ml Cusqueña, which is pretty good. Quite a nice down at heel quality (vaguely Camden-in-my-memory esque) and the music is OK, a bit better than at the bar last night

Brief note about that island 2.5 hrs from Puno. About 2000 people live there, quite a lot of restaurants although not as apparently saturated with them as Yumani on Isla del Sol. Quite attractive and all that.

I shall try not to judge Peru based on this place. I will regard it as the San Pedro de Atacama of Peru. If my first experience of Chile had been SPdA I would have a different view of the country I think.

I was the only customer when I got here (well, excepting a couple of guys at the bar who are probably mates with the staff) but it's getting a bit busier now. I have no intention or expectation of entering into a conversation with anyone but a bit of extra life is welcome. Sat at a table partly because the bar is small and partly because I'm not seeking conversation.

8.45pm. Well that was odd. A French woman came over and asked me to take a picture of her and her friend and they invited me to join them. They are going to Copacabana tomorrow and were in Nazca couch-surfing a few days ago, so we exchanged a few tips. (They were called Mary & Blondin, FWIW, taking 15 days holiday from their work in a business travel agency called PDC or similar in Montpellier. Nice to meet those rare people who have less time off than I do. :-) )

Only problem was they were at some low table where you had to squat on the floor, my legs hurt. All the tables are full now, I have perched myself on the edge of a proper table with a couple of other women now they've gone to eat, but I feel a bit awkward. I think I might go back to last night's bar for the last beer or two as I would like to try and get a table to myself. Bit of a shame as it's OK here but comfort has to be paramount.

Ah, a table just came free. It's a small place with about six tables and I feel a bit obstructive sitting at this big table on my own, but sod it. At least if anyone else wants to sit here I was here first, the opposite situation to the one I was in just now. (I can't believe anyone is reading this, so much fascinating live action!)

Oh, those two French women had tried guinea pig. As I suspected, they basically serve you the thing whole (although apparently you can ask to have it served cut up), which is one reason I don't plan to try it. Blondin said it tastes like rabbit. (I couldn't draw that comparison, never having tried rabbit.)

Ah, there is an upstairs here which I just noticed, so space isn't a problem. I still have to be up early but I think I will stay here rather than clearing off to the other bar.

Oh, I fell asleep on the boat back as well. That irresistible something that sometimes comes over me on long trips (if 2.5h counts as long) came over me, although I wasn't feeling particularly tired. Fingers crossed it will be the same on the buses tomorrow.

Oh, those French girls had been in Arequipa and although they were with a local, they said it didn't feel particularly dangerous. This may not mean much, but I will cling to it.

They also confirmed what the guide book says that you should not eat before the flight over the Nazca lines if you are prone to motion sickness. I had assumed it was a turbulence kind of thing, but the way they described it the pilots probably just fly a bit madly. They say there's probably no need to book, which is cool.

9:45pm. Not drunk but I think the pizza is taking its toll, I feel a bit heavy and am not particularly enjoying myself, although the atmosphere here is good. I shall finish this beer then cease pursuing the phantom Pleasure through the maze of Dissipation, go back to the hostel and pack and try (probably unsuccessful) to get a relatively early night.

10pm. Just been asked to move to the bar to free up the table, no problem, the guy was very apologetic. Been for a piss and feeling better. Half tempted to stay for another but I hope I will be strong. Curse these early starts...

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